Overtightened towel rail tails

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by b3n, Jan 18, 2018.

  1. b3n

    b3n New Member

    Hi,

    have recently installed a Blyss 600x1200 towel rail - the right tail leaks very slowly. unfortunately I think i've overtightened the tail as it began partially disappeared into the main body of the rail! The other side is fine with no leaking and still has a small amount of thread visible.

    I'll try loading it up with more PTFE tomorrow (last attempt had 8 turns and still leaking). If this doesn't work have I completely b**gered the thread? Any suggestions on :
    a) what else i could try
    b) if it's a total write off as a last resort could I turn it upside down and use the threads on the other end - are they the same?!

    Thanks for your help folks - must learn to calm down with spanners and mild steel!

    ben
     
  2. nigel willson

    nigel willson Screwfix Select

    Sounds like you didn’t put on enough PTFE? How many turns did you use?
     
  3. b3n

    b3n New Member

    around 8 - is there an advisable limit to how many or just whenever the water stops?
    cheers
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    8 he said...more like 15 I think and wind/twist plenty over the end so it clumps up.
     
  5. terrymac

    terrymac Screwfix Select

    And don't screw it in so far
     
  6. Stan Lee Blade

    Stan Lee Blade Active Member

    The thread on the tail is tapered so it will not tighten until it is very nearly in : You can in fact overtighten it and stretch the hole, meaning you will have to screw it in further for the same effect.

    I always use boss white on the threads before wrapping with PTF ( in a clockwise direction assuming the thread to be on the right while doing this ) as Bodgit suggests about 15 turns, work it into the threads keeping it tight.
    Wrap more of the tape at the start of the thread where the taper is less .
    I would not think you have actually damaged the thread.

    If you can hang it upside down, they are the same threads, the plug and bleed valve are parallel threads sealed with an o-ring .
    You can start from scratch again on the tails
     
    retiredsparks and Dr Bodgit like this.
  7. b3n

    b3n New Member

    Thanks everyone, tried again today - no leaks (so far) and a warm bathroom...
    More tape, less tightening seemed to do the trick. Now on to drilling holes into some porcelain tiles :eek:

    ben
     
  8. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Super Member

    Plasticine/putty ring..lots of water and slow rate of cutting.
    Rs
     
  9. teabreak

    teabreak Screwfix Select

    Avoid normal masonry drills get a diamond one from somewhere like Topps tiles, don't be tempted to switch on hammer!;)
     
  10. dubsie

    dubsie Active Member

    It should not be possible to wind the valve tail all the way in. Use enough PTFE and wind it in the correct direction.....hold the valve in your left hand with the thread towards your right....then wind clockwise.

    A lot depends on the quality of the thread and the valves used and this will affect how many wraps you use. You sort of get a feel for when things are right.....sometimes you have to take the valve out an wind a few more.

    With gas paste is normally enough but water is harder to work with because of the pressure.

    Just be aware if you overtighten the thread you can actually damage the radiator.....and thats the end of your project.
     
  11. teabreak

    teabreak Screwfix Select

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