Painting a varnished pine floor

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by Farrow1972, Aug 28, 2021.

  1. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    I want to paint a varnished pine floor
    The varnish was applied in 2002

    An architect friend recommended a water based Farrow & Ball Primer Undercoat plus F&B Modern Eggshell to this Spec

    1. Sand back to bare wood with all varnish removed
    2. Clean and wipe up dust
    3. Fill worm trails etc
    4. Spot prime filler with diluted primer/undercoat (Allow 4 hours to dry)
    5. Prime whole floor with undiluted primer/UC (Allow 4 hours to dry)
    6. Apply two topcoats (Allow 4 hour between each)
    Colour mid grey
    I want a paint finish which is easy to touch up now and again

    Would this be a good spec to follow

    Can anyone recommend any other solutions
    Is there a solution which avoids removing all of the varnish but is still hard-wearing
     
  2. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    As above but after sanding back zinsser BIN.
    Rattle cans (2) warmed is easy way but most use roller and brush
     
  3. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    If using Zinnser BIN would I need to fully remove all of the varnish.
    Or just the loose and flaking varnish

    What would be the best paint.
    for a really hard wearing finish
     
  4. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Just the loose will work and sand down smooth.

    Have you considered varnish remover (paint stripper)
    Can't say what is best without having a look but BIN will stick fine.
     
    Farrow1972 likes this.
  5. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Well-Known Member

    No need whatsoever to remove any varnish. Sand surface to 120 grit to remove flaking coating and provide a key. Prime/undercoat using Sandtex oil-based grey primer. Allow 24 hours to dry. Apply 2 coats F&B eggshell. Done. I built/installed this gable end/doors/windows 8 years ago and stained/varnished it using Sikkens products. The new owners hated it - so I refinished it all using the above method in F&B ‘Pigeon’ exterior eggshell 3 years ago. Looks identical today - I know, because I was back to price up additional work yesterday. Bear in mind that this is outside - it’s endured freezing winters, tropical summers, rain, wind and everything in between. A floor represents a walk in the park. I know that F&B paints are much-maligned, mostly because of the price - but the quality and durability of their more specialist paints such the external eggshell is absolutely stellar. I’d strongly recommend it for your floor.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 28, 2021
  6. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    If external door don't use BIN. Go with above
     
  7. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    My floor is internal
    The varnish is probably not as bonded as yours
    But let's say I sand it back to a keyed finish without removing it entirely
    What primer undercoat and top coat would I use if I decided to go with a hard wearing oil based alternative floor paint
     
  8. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Well-Known Member

    I knew that your floor was internal - I was just using the above example to illustrate the durability of F&B exterior eggshell as a finish. Stick with my suggestion above and you'll be golden.
     
    Farrow1972 likes this.
  9. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    Can you post a link to the exterior eggshell you used so I can make sure I ask for info on the correct product
     
  10. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Well-Known Member

    Here you go. Available in their full range of colours. If your floor is going to be a pale colour - the Sandtex oil primer is also available in white.

    https://www.farrow-ball.com/our-finishes/exterior-wood-metal

    Since you won't need the algae and fungal protection though - F&B recommend their 'Modern Eggshell' for interior floors. Scroll down the page;

    https://www.farrow-ball.com/our-finishes/interior-wood-metal

    Hope you get fixed up.
     
    Farrow1972 likes this.
  11. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    Thanks that's very helpful

    So my new spec is this

    Can you confirm Sandtex product

    Please confirm no 4 is not required

    1. Sand surface to 120 grit to remove flaking coating and provide a key.
    2. Clean and wipe up dust
    3. Fill worm trails etc
    4. Spot prime filler.
    *There should be no need to do this*
    5. Prime/undercoat using Sandtex oil-based grey primer. Allow 24 hours to dry
    6. Apply two topcoats Modern Eggshell (Allow 4 hour between each)
    Colour mid grey
     
  12. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Well-Known Member

    Exactly as above. The Sandtex primer is fantastic - and dries to a dead matt finish which takes topcoats really well. I know it's principally aimed at exterior woodwork - but I've yet to find a better primer for timber. I use it on practically everything. One important tip = oil-based paint products contain chemical dryers - since these are metallic compounds which are usually heavier than the liquid, they sometimes settle to the bottom of the can during storage. Make sure you stir the paint very thoroughly before use, otherwise the paint will take forever to dry.

    https://www.sandtex.co.uk/products/sandtex-10-year-primer-undercoat-paint/

    Post a pic of your beautiful new floor when you're done.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2021
    Farrow1972 likes this.
  13. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    Will do and thanks for guidance

    A couple of final points

    Fill the gaps between the boards or not

    I'd prefer not to if that is ok

    What type of filler would you recommend for the worm trails
    And if required the gaps
     
  14. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Well-Known Member

    You're welcome. I'd also avoid filling the gaps. Boards expand and contract, and chances are that whatever filler you use (even a flexible one) is going to eventually make the floor look rubbish. Enjoy the gaps because they're part and parcel of floorboards. Best filler for holes/trails/damage etc. in timber which is going to get painted, is Isopon P38 from Halfords - a 2-pack polyester. You mix up a golfball-sized dollop of filler with a pea-sized dollop of catalyst hardener and mix very thoroughly. It's rock solid and ready for sanding flat in under 30 minutes. Smooth, creamy and very easy to use;

    https://www.halfords.com/motoring/p...davids-isopon-p38-easy-sand-250ml-711663.html

    Final tip is to thoroughly clean out the gaps before you start, scraping out the debris with a flat-bladed screwdriver if necessary, followed by a thorough vacuum. A lifetime's worth of dust and crud is waiting down there, poised to ruin your paintjob.
     
    Farrow1972 likes this.
  15. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    Farrow & Ball Modern Eggshell is water based
    Will this adhere ok to the Sandtex Primer Undercoat

    I have heard the F&B say not to use other Primer/Undercoats
    I just read somewhere that another painter had to apply F&B Primer/Undercoat over another make of Primer/Undercoat to get Modern Eggshell to dry quickly
     
  16. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Well-Known Member

    It adheres just fine. Go back and look at my gable end after 3 years - it looks as good as when I first did it. I've been using this combo for many years and have had zero issues. Not being cynical, but F&B say that so that people will buy their super-expensive primer - and for no other reason. It's a can of paint - not a can of unicorn's tears needing a sprinkle of fairy magic to work properly. All their paints are water-based and dry quickly irrespective of what's underneath the coat. You can't stop water from evaporating. That's how water-based paint dries.
     
    Farrow1972 likes this.
  17. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    Thanks mate
     
  18. Farrow1972

    Farrow1972 New Member

    Anyone here tried Coo Var Floor Paint
    Would that work on my floor
    Looks like an easy option
     

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