Painting Over Wood Panelling

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by Gordon J, Mar 8, 2018.

  1. Gordon J

    Gordon J Member

    Hi there,

    I'm about to start repainting over varnished wood panelling, it's a mid pine finish.

    I've got some Zinsser Primer, recommended fod just such a task, and Dulux white undercoat.

    The final coat is to be a light blue emulsion.

    Could anyone please offer me some advice before I start, are there any pitfalls I should avoid?

    Thanks a lot in advance.

    Gordon.
     
  2. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    My own experience of painting over matchboard paneling is that you suddenly find out how many gaps and cracks there were in the original boarding which now look very obvious and take an awful lot of painting and fiddling around to obliterate them. For that reason I would use a sprayer.

    Proper painters/decorators should be along with decent advice at some point.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2018
  3. Isitreally

    Isitreally Super Member

  4. Hi Gordon.

    I've painted lots of wood panelling, and what you probably will find is that is expands and shrinks over the year with air moisture. Not really a problem, but you may need to go over it again if unsightly cracks show between the boards.

    Ideally paint them when they are at maximum shrinkage point :)

    (I wouldn't spray them - just brush with the grain. Looks good.)
     
  5. fillyboy

    fillyboy Screwfix Select

    Decorators caulk worked well into the joints.
     
    btiw2 and Astramax like this.
  6. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Sand over to remove any knibs, apply Zinsser BIN and let, if its matchboard fill gaps between each joint with decorators caulk as already suggested and leave to thoroughly dry, apply the undercoat (Dulux Quick Dry Primer/Undercoat has excellent opacity) 2 coats will be fine, rather than emulsion I would go for a tougher finish over timber such as a Quick Dry Eggshell or Quick Dry Satinwood both Dulux products.
     
  7. Gordon J

    Gordon J Member

    Folks,

    Many thanks for all the responses. I don't have spray equipment so it will all be brush work.

    Based on your advice I'm now planning to tackle the project it this way;

    1. Central Heating off for maximum shrinkage.

    2. Sand & Fill with caulk.

    3. Two Coats of Zinsser BIN.

    4. Two Coats Dulux Undercoat.

    5. Two Coats of Dulux Satinwood.

    Hopefully that'll look good for ages.
     
  8. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Sounds good. :)
     
  9. Gordon J

    Gordon J Member

    Thanks again, a big job but it'll be satisfying when done. :)
     
  10. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    You want the heating on for a while. Wood shrinks when dry and expands when the air is damp. Additionally at this time of year, when you are painting you don't want the surface to be too cold. Some modern paints do cover too well at colder temperatures

    clean the wood with a tack cloth after sanding

    You need to make sure the caulk you use is designed for wood and will remain flexible

    between each coat give it rub over with sandpaper to knock off any high spots.

    Don't be in a rush to re-coat.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  11. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Thought the OP came over a quite competent so didn't want to hold his hand going into microscopic detail.:confused:
     
  12. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Famous last words :);)
     
  13. Gordon J

    Gordon J Member

    I was aiming to paint over 5 days to give plenty of drying time between coats, I've painted over tacky paint before and it has never turned out well.

    While the central heating will be off, there will still be a normal level of domestic moisture for late winter/early spring. The panelling is all in an attic conversion so much of the moisture will rise I presume. So, while it won't be freezing, it won't be at maximum expansion either. I suppose it's tricky to judge perfectly.

    The point about the wood caulk has been taken on board - much obliged.

    The Zinsser says no sanding is required, but I'd still feel better putting a key on a previously varnished surface.

    All advice, microscopic or otherwise is very much appreciated.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice