Painting Plywood Sheets

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by PHILPH, Jun 14, 2013.


    PHILPH Member


    Could I ask some advice regarding the above.

    I have lined my garage with plywood sheets (which have quite a nice smooth sanded finish) after insulating the inner walls and ceiling, and now going to paint them white to make it lighter.

    Would I need to prime them first, or could I get away with just undercoating them then emulsioning them white, or just leaving the undercoat after a few coats if it came out O.K.?

    Ive seen a local store that has Dulux Trade Undercoat at £20 for 2 x 5 litres, which I think is a good deal, and just wondering if this would do, especially with it being just a garage, however I don't want to ruin the finish as Ive spent a few bob on it.

    If just the undercoat was O.K. to use would I need to thin it at all or just roller it on as it is?

    Any ideas?

  2. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    I would use a 2 coats of quick drying waterbased primer/undercoat (Glidden or Dulux for high opacity) rubbed down between coats and then finish off with 2 coats of quick drying acrylic eggshell applied with a mohair roller for a good finish.
  3. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    good choice Astramax.  Philph, which ever method you use make sure that you do not mix an oil based with a water based, its not a good combination either way round. they dry at different speeds and cracking can be the result.
  4. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Mick that is not a problem as either oil/solvent or water based would be fully dried before being overpainted. I use quick drying primer undercoat on wooden garage door frames when I paint blocks of compound garages and then Dulux gloss them any time between 2 an 4 hours after applying the QD undercoat, never had a problem with that. Time is money, more so now with the 2010 VOC extended drying times.
  5. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    ive seen the results of mixing oil and water based myself Astramax, ive seen the cracking. best avoided and no chance taken in my book. but as always, each to their own.
  6. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    The paint pigments are basically the same the difference is the mobile phase being either oil/solvent or water, as you say each to their own but I like to move with the times testing and challenging new products. I've never seen or experienced cracking using this method. Are you suggesting you would not or never have painted over Zinsser Bullseye 123 with an oi/ based paint?
  7. What would happen if Philph just rolled on a couple of thick coats of good-quality masonry paint?
  8. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    if its the newer blue tin then i have used it as a primer yes, but i would have then used water based undercoat and top coat. personally i use the bin primer for most bare wood, that knots and primes in one. but im not going to experiment with customers paint jobs incase it fails because most of my customers are regular and i have painted a number of properties several times over. so i stick to what i know works.but i do accept  that we each have our own methods.
  9. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    DA , he would have painted ply ;)
  10. Masonry paint is my get-out-of-everything paint.

    So far I've used my pot of matt black paint on rough-sawn exterior timber constructions, an aluminium-framed exterior light, my iron stair banisters and a textured repair to my geetar amp. And, on my smooth timber fascias.

    I've used white-with-a-dab-of-black-to-give-grey on a small shiplap shed at school where nothing else would adhere (due to the weird stuff the previous cove had applied).

    Oh, and I've also used it on masonry and stone work.

    In every case, it's stuck like a sticky thing, and the finish has been hmmmmm.

    I reckon it'll stick to ply just niftily. Perhaps an issue might be bleeding from resin or other stuff in the ply which could show up on a light colour.
  11. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    DA, i would definitely not risk using masonary paint on masonary or brick, its going to react for sure.:eek:
  12. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    Philph, equally you could use cuprinol jasmin white wood stain, i use this a lot and it long lasting in harsh conditions. i wouldnt recommend using it on fresh tanalised wood because the tanaliser leaches through, also it would be best to knot the ply first (if there are any knots)
  13. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    The o/p could use a number of different products such as Sadolin Superdec or Barn Paint all would do the job and provide an acceptable finish as would previously mentioned products.
  14. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    this is great, keep them coming,
  15. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Keep what coming?
  16. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    options, keep the options coming for the op.
  17. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Mick, I think there's a big clue as to the use of masonary paint. (hint, the clue is in the name)
  18. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    i hear what you are saying John, but i would still use caution,things dont always do what they say on the tin.
  19. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Ronseal does.
  20. (I thought JJ was tacking the mick out of Mick for his spells.)

    Anyways, OP, this is what to do; Paint yer ply with masonry paint. Big, fat roller. Job done. Knots won't be a prob, 'cos ply basically don't have none. Well, not deep ones anyhow; they'll be a ply-layer thick at t'most. And I doubt they'll be resinous.

    Guess what I'd do in the OP's situation? Yep, use masonry paint.

    And the only reason I'd use masonry paint rather than straight-forward emulsion (which would also work...) is that the masonry would be more durable.

    OP, guess what you should do?

    Yep, masonry paint - straight on.

    Or else silk emulsion.

    You know it makes sense...

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