Papering ceiling

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by RMH, Jan 31, 2007.

  1. RMH

    RMH New Member

    I am re-decorating my sons room and wish to paper the ceiling and then emulsion it. Its an old victorian house and the ceiling is painted. My question is; would it be best to put a coat of unibond on first or can I just paper away?
    Any advice greatfuly received.
    RMH
     
  2. MOONSHINE

    MOONSHINE New Member

    If you need to put paper on the ceiling & if the paints sound. Size the ceiling with diluted paste leave to dry over night. It can be hard for one person to do a ceiling.
     
  3. MOONSHINE

    MOONSHINE New Member

    What paper are you using?
     
  4. bobbie-dazzler

    bobbie-dazzler New Member

    I love papering ceilings, prefer doing that to walls,(mad I know)

    Do what moonshine says size the ceiling the night before, and when you actually come to putting your first length up, whack a bit of paste on where you starting, as the first length is the hardest.
    Dont forget if its anaglypta or lining paper, soak each length for approx 5-10 mins till supple.
    Fold your paper in a corcetina fashion.

    I always work towards point of entry (door), so if I stand at the door looking into the room, I would start over in the right hand corner of the room working towards the door.

    If its a fairly biggish room you will need a scaffold board to walk along, but failing that, and if you have long legs, then walk across the 2 sets of steps, and you can always have a broom to hold the paper up with one hand whilst your moving the steps further along, the times I have done that lol.
     
  5. Painterboy

    Painterboy New Member

    A couple of other things to remember. I like to paper across the shortest length. I work out my starting point so that a join occurs where the light fitting is.

    Having done that then snap a chalk line across the ceiling.
     
  6. RMH

    RMH New Member

    Thank you for all your helpful advice, all taken on board.
    I will be using an embossed paper so will make sure it has soaked for the advised period of time before proceeding.

    Many Thanks
     
  7. bobbie-dazzler

    bobbie-dazzler New Member


    I always work towards point of entry (door), so if I
    stand at the door looking into the room, I would
    start over in the right hand corner of the room
    working towards the door.



    Ooops,I gave you the wrong info there, it was quite early when I posted, and wasnt awake properly.

    I meant to say start over on the left looking into the room,not the right, and with it being anaglypta you wont see the joins, if you start on the right you will do.
    Also, dont use a seam roller on the butt joins, as this will flatten the seams,just tickle it with the brush when you come to that bit, unless you are using a good decent priced Ana,like 'Gordon and Brown', then you can brush a bit harder on the seams.
     
  8. bobbie-dazzler

    bobbie-dazzler New Member

    Lol what is bl00dy wrong with me, I meant Graham and Brown.:)
     
  9. Guttercat

    Guttercat New Member

    Lol what is bl00dy wrong with me, I meant Graham and
    Brown.:)

    :^O:^O:^O Gordon Brown :^O:^O:^O
     
  10. Burlington Bertie

    Burlington Bertie New Member

    Beg, steal or borrow some scaffold boards and some trestles (almost as long as the room to be papered). You need to be able to walk the entire length of the room to do the ceiling comfortably. Trying to get up and down steps without the paper peeling off the ceiling is not on. Papering ceilings is dead easy with the right gear. Only thing I would say, though is if it's a Victorian house lining paper would be more in keeping with the character of the house in my humble opinion
     
  11. Welsh decorator

    Welsh decorator New Member

    Suprised that there has been no mention of the thickness of the paste?
    Want to make life easyer? do it just that bit thicker! instead of the recomened 12 pint mix do a 9 pint mix, or even 8 and dont scimp putting it on! the paper will hold it's self up without a problem.
    No mention about starting at the point of the light scorce and working away from it?
    Start at the window wall and work away, reasion for this? <u>any slight overlaps will not cast a shadow!</u>

    Or am I just being old fashioned?
     
  12. Cecilh

    Cecilh New Member

    Welsh decorator. Being old fashioned - go on.

    I'm 57 yer know! Still got all my own teeth though.

    Nothing works like the good old fashioned - proper way
     
  13. RMH

    RMH New Member

    More useful advice, many thanks.
    Because of the height of the ceiling, a shade under 11ft I will be using trestles and a couple of planks to try and make life a bit easier.
    RMH
     
  14. Welsh decorator

    Welsh decorator New Member

    <u>Propper jobbie!</u>
    Well no complaints from me Cecilh, and I'm still in the 40's!, misse out on the user name, could have been W.D.40!

    Oh, and teeth wise, yep, still there!!!
     
  15. decoratorjonny

    decoratorjonny New Member

    erm im only 23 , ha feel dead young on here, but got to agree with welshy , work away from the light and thicker the paste the better! ............ and a nice 9 ring hami papering brush ;)
     
  16. Telmay

    Telmay New Member

    that makes me stuck in the middle at 38 then :)
     
  17. Welsh decorator

    Welsh decorator New Member

    That was almost pornografic, a "9 ringger"
    Superb brush though, use them all the time!
     

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