Patching In

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Iron_Mike, May 17, 2018.

  1. Iron_Mike

    Iron_Mike Active Member


    Have had quite a few holes to patch up in my property.

    Have relied on Toupret and I have found it easy to work with.

    I need to patch in close to the extractor fan in my kitchen.

    Due to the potentially higher extremities in heat and moisture, wanted to check Toupret was still a good filler to go with.

    Have attached a video of the area that I am patching in.

    Any advice appreciated.



  2. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Iron_Mike likes this.
  3. Astramax

    Astramax Well-Known Member

    You sound happy with previous use of Toupret so continue using it. EasI fil as KIAB suggests will also do the job although not as tough as Toupret when dry.
    Iron_Mike likes this.
  4. You don't need anything special there, Mike - any filler will do. The rest of that ceiling and wall is normal plaster 'skim', so nothing more than 'normal' filler is required.

    Of course some are better than others, so stick with what you know - or KIAB's suggestion.

    One wee issue - you don't have any scrim tape over that join betwixt old and new p'board so that risks a hairline crack over time. As an alternative to scrim, you will almost certainly get away with simply PVAing the joints together - brush it well in to the joints so's it coats the surfaces of both exposed edges, and also bridges and bonds them together. Wipe away any left on the top surface with a damp cloth before it dries.

    Apply further coats when dry if needed to bridge the joint where they meet - you want to effectively glue the two pieces together. When dry, skim with your chosen filler.
    Iron_Mike likes this.
  5. Iron_Mike

    Iron_Mike Active Member

    Thanks guys, I have some scrim tape.

    I can put that over the patch in. Then I will apply the toupret as I still have plenty of it.

    Has been easy to use before, so will stick with it.
    Astramax likes this.
  6. If you are going to scrim, then you should really remove an inch or so width of plaster skim from around that hole so's the scrim can sit below the intended finished level.

    If you use a craft knife to score a line - say 1.5" out from the joints - all the way around, and slope the blade so's it cuts in to the skim to leave a bevel, then use a chisel or scraper to remove that band of skim, you should be left with a suitable surface for the scrim tape.

    Ie - you don't want to add to that finished ceiling plaster height - you want to end up exactly at it.
    Iron_Mike, KIAB and CGN like this.
  7. Iron_Mike

    Iron_Mike Active Member

    Cheers DA.

    Good explanation.
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.

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