I am in the process of fitting the pelmet to my wall units however I have a problem in that I cannot work out how much overhang to have. I have drawn 2 quick pictures to illustrate my problem. Pic1 show the front view of the pelmet which is easy enough to understand. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v385/CosRush/sideview.jpg Pic2 is where the problem lies. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v385/CosRush/frontview.jpg A - Maximum overhang B - Minimum overhang to match the same amount of overhang across the front piece. C - No protrusion and is actually recessed away from the edge (which is what the instructions appear to show!!!!) cant believe this is right. Just to add, instructions are very unclear and look like a page that has been photocopied for many many years.
Its quite easy, fit the pelmet in either A B or C which ever floats your boat. As far as I knoe theres no hard and fast rule. Whichever looks best or what end user wants.
Only A will give a 45deg cut to the exact edge of the carcass though Would the mitre cut no usually be inline with the carcass edge? Have you used this style pelmet before? If so, which way did you cut it? --------------------------------------- Here's some extra pics Ive just drawn. A http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v385/CosRush/cabinet1.jpg B http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v385/CosRush/cabinet2.jpg C http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v385/CosRush/cabinet3.jpg
Fitted that style of pelmet quite a few times. Always fittied it as A. In my opinion it looks better and I've never had a complaint.
deffinatlly a but remember when working around hobs. allows a bit more room for the overhang. may be allow 640mm instead of 600 may be even more if ading end pannels
with A, when you put a door on then it is flush at the front, but still sticks out at the side (unless you have wall end panels, in which case im with you). Its just a dust trap IMHO, and whenever i see it like that i think a builder has fitted the kitchen :^O
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