Pilot Holes for 120mm nails

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Marie_j, Apr 5, 2013.

  1. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    Yes i thought the bearers were not really up to the job.  The company Dunster House have cut corners to save money. i have just got some 120mm screws which I will use to try and assemble the frame.  I have also bought some 3x3 timber to strengthen the whole thing.  My drill has two drill speeds however i have never known why.
  2. 3x3? Er, I thought you wanted to strengthen the frame...

    Anyways, what type of drill do you have - mains or cordless? Make? Model? If it isn't up to the job, you risk burning it out driving 5" screws.
  3. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    I have a   bosch 12v  cordless, PSB 12VSP-2,  with 2 speeds and low medium and high torque.  I bought Screw-Tite Screws, 120mm. The first one went in quite easy. I need to now find my charger amoungst the moving house boxes.
  4. OOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooohhhhh! You've got a Bosch, eh? (Holds handbag up against chest, speaks in sing-song voice...)

    (I don't... :()

    That should do the job chust fine, and good choice of screws too - very strong.

    Enjoy :)
  5. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Your torque is high for drilling and speed 2. Torque lowered for screwing(ooer) and slow speed so that you don't screw in too far.

    But with those long screws you use slow speed and high torque(low torque will stop screwing before the screw is in far enough). You want it to keep going until you stop. Get your clearance hole as thick as the screw.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  6. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    The screw tite screws are marketed as going in without the need for clearance holes.
    The old bosch was not up to the task, however my newer tesco special cordless got 6  screws in whilst begging for a recharge with no clearance holes either. I have never done some much screwing in one day oeer.
  7. Careful - with that kind of smutty innuendo you'll attract all the weirdos on this forum.

    Anyways - how's yoooo doin'?
  8. surfermick

    surfermick New Member

    photo's needed please
  9. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

  10. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    [​IMG]The bearers are now screwed together.  I am not sure if I should join together the two sections.  So far, so good, thanks for all of the advice so far.
  11. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    It should have been this picture. [​IMG]
  12. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    I am ready to start putting the actual log cabin/ garage together.  The forecast is now for rain for the next few day.  Would you advise waiting for a dry day or would it be ok to assewmble  during this wet spell.  I am worried about warping wood etc.
  13. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    <h2>I found this:  " If you erect a cabin in damp weather, components will dry and contract afterwards, leading to gaps or splits appearing. This is not a fault with the timber and therefore not covered under guarantee."</h2>got my answer
  14. Do you have all the parts stored under cover?
  15. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    All of the 500 or so parts are under cover, one tarp leaks in some places however so I have at least on plank which needs to be straightened.  In the meantime I have decided to add more blocks to block up possible entarnces for animals and make the floor a little bit more stable.  i am hoping the weekend may be good enough to go ahead and build it.
  16. If you are planning to block around the whole perimiter, don't forget to leave lots of ventilation - vent bricks, etc. You don't want yer bottom getting damp.

    (Well - you started it...)
  17. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    Thanks I have just added a couple of air bricks to the perimiter.  I was thinking about throwing gravel into the centre of the frame to stop anything growing and to prevent animals nesting.  Is this a good idea or am I better leaving the gap to allow air to circulate.
  18. A couple...?

    You already have a fabric down, so that should stop most plant life. A thin coating of gravel will protect the membrane against UV degradation. YOu are going to border-off the perimeter, so that will stop animal life.

    So, I wouldn't fill the gap with more gravel; it really is imprtant that air can circulate underneath to keep them timbers dry.

    A thought - are the timber bearers sitting on a damp-proof membrane to stop rising damp getting to them?
  19. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    I have fitted two air bricks and left lots of little gaps where air should be able to pass.  I did consider sitting the bearers on membrane, I worried that it may trap moisture.

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