Pilot Holes for 120mm nails

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Marie_j, Apr 5, 2013.

  1. builderlondonuk

    builderlondonuk New Member

    Is that a real garage and you use a wooden frame for flooring ? Are you going to park a car on that ? It looks a bit adventurous
     
  2. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    No its a wooden frame supplied by the company who sold me the log cabin which will not have anything too heavy inside it.
     
  3. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    Is it too late to relocate at least some of the blocks ?

    if built as shown you will likely be needing to replace the base framework within 4 - 6 years

    the outer blocks should have been placed such that that skin or cladding of the structure shreds water to ground, as shown it would appear that run off direct to ground is interrupted by the block protrusion - very quickly they will become water logged, retaining moisture for many days after it has stopped raining - sitting even treated timber on saturated blocks will quickly result in structurally compromised timbers

    move the outer blocks inwards, perhaps add more or create a continuous strip found and a dwarf wall to sit the timber frame on, and lay a DPC on top of the blocks (under the wall plate) - ensure the cladding/skin sheds the run off direct to ground, ensure all of the area underneath is covered with a membrane and add more support under the two inboard timbers which currently have none
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    Hi Sean,
    Thanks for your comments, the log cabin has come to a halt due to the sudden death of a close family member. I feel like just paying someone to finish it off, I also want to finish it myself rather than be beaten by the damn thing.

    I am  trying to work it all out, even more so after what you said about the bearers becoming water logged.  I assume this is because blocks soak up water rather than repel it like slabs?  I have put more blocks in to support the other sections (which was not advised by Dunster House Suppliers of Log Cabin).
    The blocks are all set in compo/concrete so moving them is going to be difficult.  I have thought about moving the frame so it sits flush at the back and one side.  This would leave only one side exposed to run off water(the front of the cabin has a canopy).  I would hope that the combination of the roof over hang and protection of fence 1metre from non flush side would prevent the timbers becoming water logged.  Is it possible to coat the blocks with anything to prevent them acting like sponges?  I have tried to upload some new pictures , however every time I attempt this the screwfix site crashes.
    Thank you for taking the time to give me your most welcome advice.
    mj
    x
     
  5. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Would you be allowed to go up another brick height, setting them flush with the frame ?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  6. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    Do you mean allowed as in planning regs?
     
  7. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    ..As in, can you go that much higher(or is there any reason why you couldn't/mustn't)?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  8. Marie_j

    Marie_j Member

    I could possibly go a block higher, I will have to check planning regulations.  On the lower side of the cabin the blocks are already 3 blocks high to compensate for the fall of the ground.  It is 1 metre from the boundry, to go much higher I think it needs to be two metres away from the boundry.  I have found some polythene damp proof that is 300mm which would cover the whole of the block.
     
  9. mof

    mof Member

    A lot of discusion for a simple job, the only thing I will add is the fact that a hammer needs a slight rounding off the face, just look at a new hammer? I once used a claw hammer that a joiner had ground perfectly flat on the face thinking it would make it better in fact it was bl**dy dangerous and made the nails fly off at great speed?
     

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