Plastering around sockets

Discussion in 'Other Trades Talk' started by Coldcut, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    I would just like some advice on plastering around electrical sockets.
    Do i just make a holes big enough for the 2.5mm. Twin&Earth cable to come through, plaster then cut out to fit the boxes?
    And if so, would the plaster crumble around if i cut the sockets out after?
    It would be quite difficult for me to plaster with the dry lining boxes in place as some will be close to one another.
  2. wiggy

    wiggy Well-Known Member

    Fit the boxes first
  3. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    Thanks but I will have a right game plastering around the boxes as I wanted pairs and within a few inches of each other.
  4. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    You can get blanking covers to go in the boxes during plastering. The plaster then breaks off.

    Everyone has their own way of doing it - for example screw up some plastic bubble wrap or similar and stuff in the box then a piece of corrugated card in the front to stop excessive amounts going in and keeping the screw holes clean.

    Wait a few hours and there will be more suggestions.
  5. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    Is this a stud wall ?

    If yes,
    Could fit boxes then remove before plastering, coil up cables and poke back through hole, with a draw wire/string attached

    Or run cables, poke through PB at socket centre position then plaster

    Cut out for sockets with a multi tool if you have, if not, a pad saw

    Keep cut outs nice and tight to boxes and use decent dry lining boxes (Appleby)

    Sockets overlap boxes by a few mm all round so any slight raggedness is covered

    Only diy me but that’s what I would do :)
  6. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    Yes I've battened the wall as its going to accommodate pir boards.
    Yes your first idea,
    Could fit boxes then remove before plastering, coil up cables and poke back through hole, with a draw wire/string attached would work.
    If got the Appleby boxes, pad saw and multi tool as well.
    Cheers dave!
  7. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    Good idea Pollowick I've got plenty of bubble wrap to stuff up the holes, cheers.
  8. Wayners

    Wayners Well-Known Member

    I've set loads of boxes in with toupret filler. Tape up the front plate fixing holes and set box in place with filler. Wedge with whatever and just get it in correct place perfect. When set 40 mins remove wedges and fill around again. The box should be in the perfect position so then add a screw to box if you like although I don't bother. Toupret drys rapid so with be completely dry the following day no matter how thick the filler is
  9. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    I'm getting lost with the wedges and filler?
    If i fit the boxes then remove before plastering, coil up cables and poke back through hole, with a draw wire/string attached, then I've already got my positions perfect?
    And then I can just plaster the whole wall without using wedges and filler?
  10. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    I don’t think wayners has read your post correctly. Sounds like he’s talking about fixing metal back boxes into solid walls

    Go with the plan, it’s simple so why complicate ?

    Multi tool is perfect for cutting tight, accurate holes for PB boxes

    Others will say don’t use ‘fast fit’ boxes as they’re a bodge ..... blah blah blah ...... batten wall...... use metal ...... blah blah blah ...... etc

    You’re using quality boxes we’ve established (Appleby), as long as you don’t go mental with faceplate screws and cut accurate holes in PB, all will be fine

    Sheeeeeesh ........... :)
  11. Wayners

    Wayners Well-Known Member

    You talking about dry lined plastic boxes or metal plastered in boxes? Plastic dry lined can be cut out before or after the plasterboard has been skimmed. Metal sunk in boxes need to be fitted first with cables coiled inside then plastered around.
  12. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    ‘Dry lining’ boxes mentioned in the OP mate
  13. Wayners

    Wayners Well-Known Member

    OK.. Cut them out and fit to check they are ok then remove for plastering. 1 in 100 boxes the side clip breaks but easy enough to replace.
  14. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

  15. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Don't know of any.

    Why not use the Wago standard 773 type which take 1 to 2.5 mm (not the 773-173 which is for 2.5-6 mm) and a Wago Box?
  16. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    They cost £5 more and you only get half the amount.
    I'll buy the ideal insure connectors then I'll ask just to look at the Wago Box to see if they fit it
  17. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    SF don't, for some reason, stock the standard 3 way 773s.

    However, comparing the 2-way versions.

    Wago 773 item 77102 are £10.49/100 and ideal 50427 are £9.99/100 not much difference in those prices.

    For 4 way, Wago 27374 £17.39/100 and Ideal 71502 £15.99/100 again just a small difference.
  18. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    This is just temporary to insulate cables whilst plastering (assuming the circuit is live) ?

    And this is a diy job in your own house I take it ?

    Just use 30A choc bloc on cables and wrap with insulation tape
    Your not gonna be chucking buckets of water at the walls are you (ok, a brush of pva I guess)

    That's what I do if removing sockets to decorate, never killed me so far ;)
  19. Coldcut

    Coldcut Member

    Cheers dave,
    Yes my own home and yes I would prefer to have the circuit kept on after I've isolated all the cables.
    I'll have a look at some choc boxes.
    I'm going to pack the sockets with some bubble wrap also just for some extra protection and to also stop any unwanted plaster entering.
  20. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    Nothing really to look at, simplicity in itself, wrap well with tape and overlap tape onto cable - job done


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