[Please Help] Need to lift chipboard flooring to address pipes knocking

I used 22mm Caberfloor moisture resistant chipboard, T&G. Glued the T&G with their own brand glued, looks near identical to your link, and I screwed the boards down to the joists, a screw every 150mm or thereabouts along every joists.

I used full thread screws, combination of Reisser R2 and turbosilver screws, approx 60mm long

 

Ps, drill hole, insert jigsaw, cut and then nail bar and chisel the old boards out. Obviously remove every screw first.

 

If most or your pipes are flexi type why are they banging?
How do you intend to secure your banging pipes?
You use the term floorboards. Do you mean floorboards or do you mean chipboard. It would be unusual to glue floorboards.
Don't listen to BMC2000, you should not use full threaded screws unless you drill a clearance hole in each board first. Otherwise the board will not be pulled down tight to the joist. Personally, I use Screwtite but there are others with a smooth shank.
What are ringed screws? Get an impact driver on them, then they'll budge.

 

Your floor looks loads better than mine did! And it's common practice to build your floor, then partition the rooms off.

Perhaps your pipes knock because they run straight through the joist notches? You could try padding with some foam insulation?

And as NoOhmToGoTo says - do not use full threaded screws! I used Floor-Tite screws, and a generic PVA.

My advice (and it is only advice) to you would be try cut one or more small-ish holes - either drill and jig-saw (where you KNOW there are no pipes) or circular saw set to cut to the same depth as the floor.

Then inspect your joists, pipes, floor layout etc. This is with the aim to figure out where I need to pack my joist notches, or holes - or even lag the entire lot, and where (if at all) I need to reinforce my pipes

It's worth checking that your wall is supported by noggins or a joist - if not - I would recommend reinforcing - otherwise cracks might appear as the chipboard flexes, or gets damp and sags.

Then drill a small pilot hole, countersink, and drive a flooring screw screw next to each nail - pulling the flood tight to the joist - no need to go replacing floors.

I'd then either widen my inspection holes to the joists & install noggins, or screw some 2x4 lengths into the existing floor, and then the cut-out floor to that.

creaking floors are caused by movement - stop the movement, you stop the creaking.

Hope some of this helps

 

Not an easy job. Looking at your images I'd say the existing boards are nailed not screwed, which won't help. If I ever need to remove boards to get to pipes I set the depth on my circular saw so it's cutting to maybe 1/2mm less than the depth of the floor, and cut right along the top of a joist so any board can go down. Get an evolution saw and you can even cut right through the nails if any are in the way. Chipboard has no real strength going sideways, so the boards will pull away from any fixings within about 10mm of an edge with relative ease. The 2-3mm gap from the saw should be enough to get a chisel in and lever them up.

The big problem you could well have here is how close to the walls you plan to cut. Judging by the screws your stud wall goes along the direction of the joist, but may not sit directly on top of it.

If this was me, I would remove the flooring above the pipes using the method above of a circular saw set to the right depth - check this on some scrap if possible. Take it slowly and cut too shallow then edge down, you don't want to nick a pipe or cable. I would then sort the pipes, however you plan to do that, then put the flooring back, and see what difference adding some decent flooring screws in addition to the existing nails makes. If they can stop the floor from moving, they might help stop the creaking without ripping it all out. I don't know if that would work, but it would seem to be a pretty easy thing to test without destroying the existing floor. Worst case scenario, you should be able to take out the screws and still use them on the new floor, and you haven't lost anything apart from some time.

 

Screws - OK... I'd prefer PZ2 screws so you're not restricted to 'special' bits in the future.

And the saw - I'd get a proper one - like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-rage-1b-185mm-multipurpose-circular-saw-230v/84664

I got one of these, and 1 neat and 1 rough blade and absolutely love it!
http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-hs7601j-2-1200w-190mm-circular-saw-240v/3936j
and I have used it to replace 3 floors, and a million other jobs that I'd have tried to bodge with a jig saw before