Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by RipGroove, May 30, 2016.
Thanks! And should I still grip fill the board to the joists?
No! Use the stuff Chippie recommended. Gripfil indeed.
So use this stuff on the T&G's and the tips of the joists?
Use it on the t&g and on top of the joists.
It expands like buggery and will turn your hands black so wear latex or vinyl gloves and have some wipes ready.
And this is with me treading lightly...
These boards any good?
They are the same size as what's already there, just a different brand, are the T&G's on these boards a standard size and shape, so will different brand boards slot together OK?
Please tell me more about what a clearance hole is?
The screws I used don't need a pilot hole if that's the same thing?
What problems are in store for me saying my carpenter advised to use full thread screws on my floor? All appears to be in good order up there1
From what I gather if your using full thread screws then your chipboard should be drilled out larger than the size of the screw so in effect the thread going through the chipboard is in fresh air.
I've just started my floor and been using these with no clearance hole and they are working perfectly!
That's what I thought, still can't see how the screws I use that don't need pilot holes should not be used on this.
I guess because in theory you can't pull 2 pieces of wood tight together on the same thread (in theory that is). The only way to truly do it is to either pilot the top piece of wood or use the screws I linked to. Using a screw with a big shoulder also won't work as over time the chipboard could come loose and rub up and down that shoulder, and start creaking.
Just to add I'm no carpenter but I am an Aerospace CNC machinist and I know you can bolt 2 bits of metal together if they are both threaded. Same applies to wood, only wood 'gives' a little to give the impression that it's worked.
It's called "Jacking off"
Well there you go, it has a name!
RipGroove thanks for the explanation, that makes sense
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