Plunge saw / Track saw advice please

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Monkey Chops, Mar 26, 2019.

  1. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    The play is easily adjusted with the cams (seconds - if you're slow) and the Makita rails came first - as extra lengths for when I had the Titan saw. When I bought the Festool it came with a track and I picked up a second for silly cheap money.
     
    Monkey Chops likes this.
  2. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    It was cut from the top that swung me the Makita way. That's been fine so far ;) just hope that my limited amount of cutting doesn't show blade wear problems on the last cut. I also like the way the guide strip is finally sized by the saw but should have mounted them on something and sized both.

    Buying tools is a problem though. I went through 2 Bosch drills doing very little work really. Both failed the same way - drill, hammer and screw setting, First one replaced on warrantee, it had lapsed on the 2nd one. Price if i remember correctly was around £120 + for extra batteries. That was about 18months ago. I noticed that drills didn't run that true. Ok it saw a fair amount of switching between hammer and drilling but our furling supported ceiling isn't that big. I also tend to screw hammer fixings in as well. I have had some trades in. Gas, builder and a take on all sorts builder. Gas people not happy about drills any more so buy cheaper and throw away. Builder - Dewalt, he's happy but knows some aren't. He's mostly a brick type builder. The other one had problems with SDS but mentioned Milwaukee had lasted - so far. He used Dewalt for normal drill work and happy. ;) So I replaced the drill with Milwaukee. Part of the reason was an old Oz video on youtube by some one who had been using their stuff daily for years without problems and clearly on the brushed drill they hadn't changed the design. Makita have had bad press on drills.. I recollect problems mentioned in screwfix reviews.

    :DHave to hope they haven't done the same thing on saws but they are aimed at kitchen fitters so I would have thought that was unlikely. ;) My pre Bosch drill was a Draper as kitchen fitters were using them. Drill fine, batteries had it and no reasonably priced replacements. It was way bigger and heavier than the "modern" stuff and that's probably the problem plus lower costs for the buyer and more profit.

    John
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  3. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    The Festool saw with the standard blade cuts so well that you can use it to joint boards.

    The other advantage with Festool is there is a 3 year warranty and if your tools get stolen in this period they will replace them for £100!
     
  4. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    Freud do several blades that will do that. Not bought one for a while but they were thin kerf plus a side grind that results in what could be called a finish blade due to the way they cut.

    This looks to be very similar to one I have used on a small radial arm saw. No need for a planer and rip well enough for use on a radial arm saw as well. Also available in red.
    https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU91M008
    John
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  5. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    They are fantastic blades and are the doggies danglies on crosscut saws. The reality is though they are just too thin with any saw that uses a riving knive. And to be honest, Festool and Freud blades are that good that there is no need to use anything else on a track saw.
     
  6. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    I'm glad that I had 2 lengths of guide with the Makita. :D Much to kitfit1's disgust I've just trimmed the back of a run to match the wall. About 13mm to nothing over 2m+. Had to so that the overhang looked ok and tiles will cover the gap. ;) The overhang is more than ok and oddly the joint is within 1mm of being square. :rolleyes: Only problem is that the overhang at the top of the U is now obviously bigger.
    Might be worth mentioning on here when buying a saw as no one will know how bad the walls are until they drop worktops on.

    John
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  7. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Mac Allister plunge saw is £30 off on clearance at the moment so £70. Its a rebadged Titan at B&Q
     
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  8. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    And oddly lots of branches have them in stock ...... unlike someone else whom does clearances :rolleyes:
     
  9. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Looks good for the money. Free delivery to
     
  10. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    I wasn't aware that a number of the saws that are about could score before cutting,

    :DStill glad I bought Makita though - nice clean chip free edges with the blade that comes with it. The edge is as good as a router leaves. Very little dust as well.

    If some one does have a saw that chips a bit all is not lost as it can be routed off.

    Lots of them are reviewed here.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/skillbuilderchannel/search?query=track+saw

    Good demo on how you might get kickback - unsupported work especially if flimsy, rail not clamped, ;) cutting curves especially if should be straight with any circular saw eg freehand cutting on a table saw. The riving knife helps keep the cut straighter.

    Must admit I always support the bit being cut off even if it's just a couple of pieces of lathe.

    John
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  11. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    You get kickback if you aren't doing it right.
     
  12. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    I reckon serious kickback relates to old very powerful tablesaws that used flat blades or slight offsets similar to hand saws. In other words a thing of the past. Now it seems to relate to essentially free hand cutting - bit silly on a tracksaw as is not clamping it in place - when it happens, damaged edge. All a riving knife does on a hand saw is help keep the cut reasonably straight when free hand cutting and helps limit edge damage to unsupported pieces that are being cut off.

    As an aside all of the talk about wattage in reviews gets me a bit. It's often input power that is specified not what comes out and that will vary according to how well the motor is made and also just how long a motor will provide it before overheating. This is one of the things that sets price, For instance as I have a fair amount of cornice etc jointing to do I bought an evolution 210 blade x300mm mitre saw. The motor has an 1/2hr rating which actually isn't that bad. :D I'm also hoping it will help chop holes in tiles for sockets. I do have a old B&Q one with a 10" blade and know that isn't up to the job. The evolution is fully adjustable. One problem. I should be able to add a strip of timber to the fence, stops rear splintering but no holes. Makes me wonder if the designers really know what the things should have.:oops: One disappointment, can't get a Freud thin kerf blade for it as it uses a 25.4mm arbour. On the other hand cheap and it is well put together, no warped castings etc. Might be worth looking at their track saw but the problem with cheap stuff is not really knowing until it has been bought and used.

    John
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  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Simple solution to the 25.4mm arbour problem, buy Freud thin kerf blade with 30mm bore & use reduction-rings 30mm to 25-4mm.:)

    Example:

    https://rapidtoolsdirect.co.uk/coll...s-30mm-outside-25-4mm-inside-1-8mm-thick-dart
     
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  14. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Now with £10 off code. Dam . 24 hours to late but this will make the plunge saw I mentioned £60..online discount code

    10BANDQ
     

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