priming plywood

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by jafeica, Apr 21, 2009.

  1. jafeica

    jafeica New Member

    When tiling a floor (plywood over floorboards) BAL literature suggests priming the reverse side and edges of the plywood prior to tiling. Why is this and should you prime the plywood on the side that you are tiling on.

    Thanks
     
  2. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I presume it's for balance or waterproofing.
     
  3. Steve Yorks

    Steve Yorks New Member

    It helps to seal the ply from moisture ingress. Don't prime the tiling surface though as this surface will be 'sealed' by the tile and adhesive layer.
     
  4. nickthetiler

    nickthetiler New Member

    is that Steve who cut off one of his fingers ?
     
  5. Steve Yorks

    Steve Yorks New Member

    No, still got all mine!
     
  6. GKU

    GKU New Member

    Priming ply floor also stops the ply from sucking the moisture out of the adhesive too quickly (resulting in tiles falling off) ;)
     
  7. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    No, no, no, no , NO!

    Do not prime the surface to be tiled. Prime sides and back to stop moisture ingress. If you have WBP ply there is no issue with addy, BUT I wouldn't use a ready-mixed or water evap based addy anyway. Use a FLEXIBLE, polimer-modified, CEMENT addy, THICK bed.

    Anything else, at your own risk. Just because you put ply down doesn't automatically mean your tiles won't pop.
     
  8. GKU

    GKU New Member

    No-one has said to prime the surface to be tiled , we're all talking about priming the underside & edges :O
     
  9. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    Oh sorry, got confused on your last post. Priming the rest will have no impact on evaporation re: cheap tile adhesive.
     
  10. GKU

    GKU New Member

    So your disagreeing with what I said about BARE ply sucking the moisture out of the adhesive too quickly then ( just asking cos I'm not quite clear on what you're saying) :)
     
  11. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    Priming the sides and back will have no impact on moisture. Personally I don't know about the face because I don't use water-evaporative addy.
     
  12. GKU

    GKU New Member

    Ahh , well you should try it some time , there is some very good "tubbed" adhesive out there (although I do prefer <u>bagged</u> adhesive most of the time) - BAL Whitestar & bluestar , ARDEX D30 is a VERY good alternative to bagged adhesive (being particularly recommended for bathrooms , showers etc) . I have been in many situations where I have had no alternative but to use "tubbed" adhesive ie:- blocks of flats where you are unable to mix up adhesive on the customers premises (either that or go downstairs and mix it up then lug it back up 5 flights everytime) , "Tubbed" adhesive (the better stuff) does have its place in tiling , although as I said earlier its best to use "bagged" adhesive where you can but you can certainly get a good job done with "tubbed" adhesive as well , in fact there are many tilers who use "tubbed" adhesive most of the time , it does have its place ;)
     
  13. Steve Yorks

    Steve Yorks New Member

    Personally I always prefer to use tubbed adhesive, much cleaner, quicker and easier than bagged, and less equipment to lug around and clean afterwards. I always use it on walls where I can. For floors its always bagged though.
     
  14. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    The reason I always use bagged is:
    1. I've never had a problem (had a few with tubs, Nico)
    2. Most people right now are going for large format tiles
    3. Shelf life
    4. Time waiting for it to go off.

    People must be buying every brand, inc. the ones you won't touch. I guess you get one that works and stick with it. I'm getting Bal Rapidset Flex for £27 so the cost isn't so much the issue.
     
  15. GKU

    GKU New Member

    If someone was to take on the boring task of trawling through all past posts I think the general consensus is that most Tilers do have a certain adhesive(s) that they prefer and do stick with them as you say Imran . It is always good to have a few "second choices" as well . I also use Bal rapidset most of the time , but like I said earlier sometimes "tubbed" adhesive has its advantages in certain situations (as <u>Steve Yorks</u> says) , I for one , can certainly recommend ARDEX D30 , having used it many times on different substrates , it has never let me down , the big drawback is that "tubbed" adhesive is dearer , pound for pound
     

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