products to measure mitres

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by bluepeter, May 8, 2006.

  1. bluepeter

    bluepeter New Member

    I know this has been asked on numerous occasions but i can't really find an answer to my question.
    What is the best way to measure internal and external mitres on skirting?
    Also are there any new fangled products that can take all the stress out of working out the angles prior to cutting?
    Which are the best products to use?
    Thanks in advance
    BP ;)
  2. russ295

    russ295 New Member

    i think trend do some sort of mitre finder, internal mitres on skirting are a no no IMO. i always scribe them.

  3. M.I.G.

    M.I.G. New Member

    maybe he don't know what scribing is!
  4. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Hi BP,

    What Pb means is that you scribe the internal mitre joints. The easiest way to do this is to cut one end to 45 degrees and then trace along the cut outside edge with a coping saw. This will create a 'scribe' which will meet up with the profile of the joining piece and mate at a wide range of angles. The external angles can be plotted with a Trend mitre guide or by eye and trimming. You can get them really good but timber being what it is will probably gape after a while anyway.

    Filler is the mitre's friend :)

  5. bluepeter

    bluepeter New Member

    I never mitre internals,only scribe (college trained),the problem is getting the mitres bang-on at the external point when the walls are out?
  6. M.I.G.

    M.I.G. New Member

    > Lads,
    I never mitre internals,only scribe (college
    llege trained),

    that aint what you said to start off with matie!
  7. Scrit*

    Scrit* New Member

    I use a Trend Anglefix which is what you were probably referring to. It works reasonably well - especially as I'm still using a flip-over chop saw.

  8. bluepeter

    bluepeter New Member

    Apologies PB.I should have just asked for external mitre angles. :(

    Anyway scrit,Is this trend anglefix easy to use?
    Do you just use it to mark and then remove before sawing or is it used as a guide so theres no need for marking?
    Any info would be gratefully recieved .
    thanks. ;)
  9. dual193

    dual193 New Member

    I always place one length on the wall and the other on the receiving wall on top of the other and mark the angle
  10. Scrit*

    Scrit* New Member


    Wrap the Anglefix around the corner. Transfer the Angle fix to the chop saw and place the appropriata arm against the fence of the saw. Align the blade to the small metal "comb" in the middle of the Anglefix. Remove Angle fix. Chop the cornice, moulding, etc. The comb bisects the outside angle of the corner and is a fast way to cut accurate mitres without the need to measure or mark.

  11. Scrit*

    Scrit* New Member

    Oh yes and it beats the old draw a rectangle, bisect it then transfer the angle on a sliding bevel approach as it's a LOT faster......
  12. mailee

    mailee New Member

    A Bevel guage? Don't anyone use them anymore? Simple effective easy to 'read'!
  13. bodget&scarpers

    bodget&scarpers New Member

    bit of 2 be 1, place on wall,pencil on floor corner,both cheeks,put skirts on wall mark bott of cut ,then top of skirt on wall.
  14. dual193

    dual193 New Member

    bit of 2 be 1, place on wall,pencil on floor
    corner,both cheeks,put skirts on wall mark bott of
    cut ,then top of skirt on wall.

    Their won't be any joiners left soon... learn how to do it the right way and then you can choose the way that suits you..
    Above is pritty much the way I do it.. I have bought every gadget in the book, but I allways misplace them or they get lost in the tardis (van) so I always use the old methods (tried and tested)..
  15. Evans

    Evans New Member

    try the

    bought one a while back very handy
  16. Scrit*

    Scrit* New Member

    "A Bevel guage? Don't anyone use them anymore? Simple effective easy to 'read'! "
    I still carry a sliding bevel in my kit, but it's not as fast. Do you want me to part exchange my Altendorf for a Disston and a pair of trestles then? ;)

  17. Scrit*

    Scrit* New Member

  18. dunc

    dunc New Member

    I usually use a sliding bevel and protractor to get the angle. You can also pare down behind the cut with a stanley knife and bring the joint in tight.

    However, a lot of corners are only a few degrees out of square and you can get most of the work done with 45 deg cuts in most places. Which you often need to do to satisfy the eye and achieve the ideal of uniformity through the building.

    It also pays to have your fixing battens in place and any obstacles removed so that you can lay out the whole board and get your cut as accurate as possible.
  19. mailee

    mailee New Member

    Aww, scrit, I didn't mean to imply we allreturn to the neanderthal ages, just sometimes simple is best. Besides at my age anything with markings on means getting out the reading glasses and all the mistakes that go with that! :)
  20. handyman.

    handyman. New Member

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