Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by every day is a school day, Nov 20, 2021.
Yes, there are 8 radiators after this one and 7 before it
Worked last winter so it has been off since maybe April until a few weeks ago when I started using the heating again for this season
If they don't open the boiler or touch the gas pipework, then a plumber can work on it. Although, you may find people on CIPHE that are Gas Safe Registered as well.
The fact that it cannot be resolved and defies logic is the very reason I'm here lol
so anyone with membership of the ciphe will be a guarantee they can resolve my problem? Wish I had of know this weeks ago lol.
Not a guarantee but stand a good chance of finding someone competent.
What happens when you do that? Obviously the rads you've turned off shouldn't heat. Does the boiler make any knocking noises? Does it stay on? With only the single radiator open then all the hot water should just be looping through that one. If there is a restriction then the boiler is likely to overheat and turn itself off.
I can't see or hear the boiler as its in one of the loft spaces. I have been adjusting the temperature of the boiler with my phone and it has a display that tell you if the boiler is on or off so I know it does not switch off but not sure about noise. When next to the boiler its actually impossible to know if its on other than a red light as its so very quiet.
A "long" circuit wont really be an issue in a domestic home, unless you had, say, a mansion with a room MASSIVELY away
No, it cannot be measured, certainly in that way. I am sure that one could buy a device that measured heating flow, but have never seen one. As I said, these issues are resolved by asking questions (you still have not confirmed when the rad stopped working, in relation to when the refurb work was carried out,), measuring temperatures, either with t'stat or "feel", and logic. But the principle is the same - it HAS to be a restriction or air. You have gone a long way to removing air from the consideration, by leaving just the "bad" rad on (although you also have to close the HW circuit, if not a combi).
You do not "need" a Gas safe guy, as he wont be tampering with the boiler.
It probably does not defy logic. I suspect that incorrect conclusions / assumptions have been drawn.
Are the pointless non return valves in place? They need to come out - they are desperation measures, which will be , erm, restricting the flow even further.
My gamble would be on a kink or nail in a pipe, a random valve or, if your comment about there still being microbore in place, damaged or sludged MB or a partially blocked manifold.
The truth is, you need someone to consider all the options, and, as most other avenues have been investigated, be prepared to lift boards to inspect
The display on your phone could well just be indicating a call for heat rather than telling you that the boiler is actually firing up. What boiler do you have? Are the flow and return pipes accessible anywhere just to be able to feel if they're hot (other than where they connect to a rad), such as an old airing cupboard?
Good point. If the rad wasn't heating I wonder how the plumber/HE established which was the flow and return and therefore which orientation to fit the NRV. Definitely needs to come out regardless.
Very good point
The non return valve was only put in place earlier this week in an attempt to try everything. It made no difference.
There is a connection to the main heating pipe and this pipe has a blue handle isolation value and the pipe has written on it "return". There are 5 other connections on this same section of main heating pipe and these radiators work fine. This is the return for certain.
My best plumber placed an isolation value in front of the non return valve and then another isolation valve after the non return valve. This allowed him to demonstrate that no water was getting back flow, the joint on the main heating pipe was not blocked and it meant he could disconnect the return pipe, open the lock value and drain the radiator having closed the TRV and proving it had flow. He was very thorough in what he did and he explained his logic each and every step. He said his approached was to be able to discount factors by proving them. So when he says its can't be fixed, maybe it requires (as he mentioned more than once) that a whole new pipe run needs fitting.
exbg mentioned restrictions rather than blockages but has not responded to what the flow should be as that could be a very easy test and answer a lot of questions.
Do you have a picture of this section of pipe with the isolation valve? Do you still have access to it or is it under the floor?
Re flow volume: if unrestricted it would be like turning a basin tap on.
I DID reply. There is no flow meter, as far as I am aware for use in this situation.
A picture is worth a 1000 words, so they say, it would be useful here. The new info about the iso valves is interesting, and demonstrates how difficult it is to advise remotely. But, believe me, yuor issue IS either a restriction of some sort or (unlikely) air
Average radiator should work fine with 1 lpm flow.
She mentioned that it worked since the refurb until April then she hasn't used the heating. She's recently switched on heating again and that radiator doesn't work anymore.
You STILL have not confirmed that the rad has been non operational since the refurb - this is critical, and goes to my point about close questioning of a customer
Have all of the other rads got a valve on them?
Can you see and identify the Flow pipe?
If it has NOT worked since the work, then also suspect both pipes fitted to return
If the radiator hasn’t worked since work was carried out (and it did before) then exbg’s explanation could make sense re both pipes connected to return run. Not sure how easy it will be to check if pipe work under floor etc.
yes they have confirmed it worked since works were carried out
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