refinishing door frames while fixed in position.

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by good_diyer, Jan 3, 2016.

  1. good_diyer

    good_diyer New Member

    I have a 100 year old house and recently had to replace one part of the door frame where the hinges go after trying to get the rebate back to a normal looking one. The frame in question was chisled and hacked to pieces probably with a very cheap chistle from the pound shop.
    For this job I purchased an axminster rebate plane and also a bosch electric planer that rebates after i found the hand one to be hard work.
    While I can do most of the planing with the electric one I cant get anywhere near the corners. maybe 200mm away is the closest.
    What are your suggestions on doing this? as there are other frames in house that are same... belive me they need tidying up desperately... also I would like to take 6mm off one side and add 6mm onto another to bring it out from the wall more as the door doesn't quiet open properly and catches radiator pipes.

    Really need some good honest methods... that work.
     
  2. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    Got a picture as that would help. Otherwise a good sharp chisel or if you have a steady hand a multi-tool like below:

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Diy-Wolf-Fu...F8&qid=1451840110&sr=8-10&keywords=multi+tool

    That will help take the bulk away but won't leave a great finish so you would then fettle away with a chisel and a sander. A router is great for rebating would not get you much closer than you are at the moment.

    Word of warning if you haven't used a multi-tool before, practice on some scrap as it is easy to cut away unintentionally plus the blades don't last long on hard timber.
     
    FatHands and good_diyer like this.
  3. good_diyer

    good_diyer New Member

    Basically I didn't touch the rebate yet just wanted a best opinion. The one i tried to fix was covered in nails and filler god knows what else so I just cut it and prised it out. and reclaimed a nice chunk of good wood from it by sawing off the botched rebate with a table saw (a win win imo) but as I said there are others. and I don't have the option to remove most of them as newly plastered walls exist around them.

    I happen to own a bosch multitool, which I can probably do it with if I screw a block of wood to where the architrave goes to keep the blade flat then sand (good idea I think that)

    I will generally tackle anything after a few test runs beforehand, will remove paint first see what it looks like under that because I don't want to be replacing planer blades I skimmed a nail last time luckily only skimmed the top of it so no real damage to the blade.

    Thanks for your info. any other ideas appreciated.
     
  4. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I've used a few methods for modifying rebates when installing 1/2 hr fire doors. Initially I used a router with the fence installed and with the architraves off and then graduated to using a temp mdf fence screwed to the frame with a guide bush installed on the router base.

    This method worked better inmo and was a lot quicker. Router pretty messy though and not nice holding over your head!!

    Preferred method now is to use a mini plunge saw set to rebate depth to run up the frame and then come in from the side with a multi tool. Works really well although you'll still stop short by 50mm or so with the saw, but you can finish off with multi tool. Just pop delta sanding head on then to clean up.

    Not sure if exactly applicable to your situation but may trigger off a few ideas! :)
     
  5. good_diyer

    good_diyer New Member

    yeah its not an easy job for sure... I'm obtaining tools for everything though....
     
  6. gpierce

    gpierce Active Member

    Take a look on youtube (or just google it) at Paul Sellars - he's a woodworker who does everything with hand tools. Specifically look at his 'poor mans router'.

    Basically a sharp wood chisel hammered through a hole in a piece of scrap wood at an angle to make a makeshift hand router. I'd make two - one with the hole in the middle of a piece of wood about 40mm wide, which should get you about 20mm from the corner, then maybe one with the chisel mounted closer to the edge (which would be weaker) to gently use to get even closer in, say 5mm away, which then should be much easier to cut out using a sharp chisel.
     
  7. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    You need an adjustable square, Stanley and chisels. You can set the square to the depth of the rebate. The square sits on the door lining and as you move it along you can use the Stanley to make a nice line. Cut into the rebate with the stanley in thin strips. Then you take out the rebate a little at a time with the chisel.

    You can get a 6mm strip cut in a decent timber yard, as most will have a saw blade.
     

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