Removing locking nuts, alloy wheels.

  • Thread starter Thread starter nigel
  • Start date Start date
Yah, but the tube would have to be quite hefty(if the nuts are as tight as the others).


If you like a lot of effort, have a go at this(when you've stopped laughing).


Find a hefty nut, as big as possible that fits the recess and you can get a real good fitting socket onto. Main spec is that it has a 10mm hole to fit over the projecting bit in the middle of your stud(tighter the better, but hand-moveable).

You will also need a couple of hardened masonry nails(choose you thickness, but I sugest 3mm).

Using the holes you have in your stud as a guide, drill them deeper(you will need to drill them 5mm deep), then drill corresponding holes in you nut(nice wide flange you should have to work with) again, 5mm deep.

Using whatever method available to you(anglegrinder, diamond cutter/hacksaw whatever) cut the number of pins you need out of you hardened nails, 10mm.

See where it's going ?

Tap the pins into the nut(gently), they should be a hammer-tight fit. Insert the nut onto the projection in your stud(now you will need to turn and locate the pins into the holes in your stud)

Hope you cleaned up the ends of your cut pins:)

Once you are sure they are located, tap the whole lot fully in with your hammer(and drift if necessary).

Stick your hefty socket and lever(lever, not ratchet).

Put as much pressure on your lever as you feel safe enough not to bust your contraption.


Once you have pressure on(and if the stud hasn't budged),
BELT the lever NOT to turn it, but on the end of the turning axle(as if you were going to bash the stud right through to the other side of the wheel) whilst keeping the same pressure on your levering.



The nut is undone.


(If it's not, I can't help!!!!) :D:D:D





Mr. HandyAndy - really
 
Fair point, Mr Ha, but a normal wheel socket has about 3mm wall thickness, so hopefully at least this size could be used and would fit into the recess.

I hope he gets back and tells us (mind you, if he goes for your idea he won't be back this year :p)
 
diyhopeful has it right!!!!!!

there is the l/h threaded socket nigel needs!

nigel, there must be a slim gap around the outside of the head for this to work, say 4mm - the 10mm sticking out part would be too narrow to get a good grip on anyway.

so if this no good, the hollow tube welded on (as big a dia as possible) with an old 1/2" socket welded on was a good idea.
 
Alternatively drive it in to liverpool and ask one of the locals to remove it, 5 minutes and will cost you a couple of cans of stella!!!

Mike
 
when handies method fails (the 10mm is too narrow - the nails will split the nut or just chew the nut and central part of bolt) drill out as described above, or go for welded tube and socket.
 
cancel that, just read andies method again - the nails will shear, or just bend till all pulled out.

believe me guys, i have considerable experience in this area. i work as a senior diagnostic technician in a mercedes based independant workshop. we also fit tyres to all makes of car. when the locking "keys" are missing - or more commonly just abused beyond use, they call me over. the special sockets reccomended here are first call, if they dont fit welding is the second option, failing that drilling. we usually allow 1/2 hr per bolt to drill out, but this does depend on situation. if welding we usually try to weld on a 12 or 14mm bolt (thread size) and even these have sheared on occasion. if all of nigels brothers bolts were tight (bent his wheel brace) then having to drill is a strong possibility. often just a little clean up and oil on threads will prevent this scenario, but many people these days would rather have teeth pulled than maintain there vehicles. btw oiling or greasing of wheel bolts is officially frowned upon by c&g practices, but is actually a good idea, as is tightening them to the correct torque with a torque wrench - not gunning them up till they turn no further.
 
mudhut, not saying you are wrong about my method, but should reiterate that 'hardened masonry nails' should be used.

These should not shear or bend. They are harder than the bolt itself.

AND the most important part of the operation is the smack with the hammer through the axis of the lever.(you may probably know the importance of a smack with a hammer on the side of a balljoint housing, when separators are not available).


Mr. HandyAndy - really
 
since you have been driving round with only th lock nuts holding things should have loosend up by now, for most of the methods to work!

Seriously i think the easiest option would be drilling. welding may be a option if you have the facilities. if the "lock nuts" are bolts it's dead easy (ish). if they are studs then you will have to replce the stud after getting the wheel off. this may neccecitate removing the hub.

when drilling as suggested earlier start with a 3mm drill. you may need a longseries one from a engineering suppliers. don't take it all in one go. drill maybe 8mm in then open it up. a bit at a time. maybe 6mm then 9mm if the thread is 10mm then it should shear off at 9mm. if not then go 1mm at a time till it does. if it's a bolt then plyers or grips should get it out. as for a stud it may hammer out or you may need a press.

good luck
 
Still waiting for it to return from workshop [he blew the head gasket last week], have tried test drilling and was fairly easy to drill even with a cordless drill, may try the welding as have a mig welder at home.
 
i personally would not want to drill such small increases in drill bit sizes, landyman. have you ever tried to enlarge say a 9mm hole to 10mm? the bit bites too much and just chews itself up, hence my 3mm pilot reccomendation for an eg 13mm second size.

i stress again, the key to drilling is keeping pilot hole straight and central, and hopefully not breaking the drill in the hole!
 
just "rock" the wheel off means you will only have three nuts on the wheel but it will be off.
This is how the naughty boys nick your wheels when you have lock nuts on ;)
 
you may be using too high a drill speed nigel. hss bits will work, but cobalt are the best/most expensive. your technique/method is more important which drill bits you use.
 
Tried most of the methods listed here on a Peugeot 307 starting with the spiral sockets that Screwfix sell which took the stud top off the wheelnut so made things much worse. Tried drilling a pilot hole then 13mm HSS drill but the drills hardly made an impression so be aware that drilling the wheelnut out is a lot more difficult than it sounds due to the type of steel used in the wheelnut manufacture. Also tried hammering an undersized socket on one of the other locking wheelnuts but wouldn't grip.

I read various forums some of which kept mentioning Dynomec so gave them a ring and they said that if I went to their building they would remove the 4 wheel nuts for about £30. They are based in West Yorkshire and it took them about 10 mins to remove all the wheelnuts including the one that had been butchered by the spiral socket and 13mm drill. For me it was about an hours drive and well worth the journey but they have people driving there from London, Scotland and the South West

http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/indexEnglish.html

If I ever lose a wheelnut key again as I will probably still try the spiral socket first (unless someone wants to buy them ?) but it this doesn't work I will be giving Dynomec a call and certainly won't waste time trying to drill out the wheelnut
 
I would assume that as the topic and other responses were posted 2 years ago that:

a) The problem has been sorted, or

b) The vehicle has been sold or scrapped.

Cant understand why you dug that from the archives 'why me' ;)

IWS: Information With a Smile :)
 
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