Repair to Gulley pot

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by FatHands, Sep 29, 2013.

  1. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member


    Thanks to all who helped with the waste run debacle from the kitchen ;).

    Its now in place although the gulley pot is all broken! Its an old clay (i assume) pot and pipes. I spoke with the water board although they said they are only responsible for the backbone of it and not the pots from the houses that lead up to it.

    I've cut a piece out of the path (below) and wondered on the best repair for this. 

    Will anything i buy in plastic fit the existing clay set-up (1950's build house)? If so, should i break up the remaining pipe (arrowed in red) and then insert the new fitting in the bigger pipe (which feels quite loose in the ground)? If yes, what should be used to seal (if anything)?

    Also, is it OK to put 30mm of chippings down before cementing it all in place?

    Any links for what i would need as a Gulley pot/pipes etc appreciated.

    Many thanks


  2. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    I dunno. But if the next pipe is loose in the ground, likely the joint's gone in that too.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  3. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

  4. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    hi Fats just a quick question, when you remove the damdaged section of pipe will you be left with a spigot on the end of clay pipe? plastic is an option although you will need a connector. i would reccomend pea gravel as a bedding material. also do you know how long the loose section of pipe could be? and lastly what other wastes is the gully serving other than kitchen waste youv'e already mentioned? another picture showing where it is located would be helpul.
  5. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Spigot/socket end is more than likely if upstream. You will have to cut some pipe as Sean says, as thoses fittings aren't suitable for spigot connection. Just a bit worried about loose pipe.
  6. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    - this will avoid having to cut clay pipe. Toolstation do something similar (96056) - but will have to confirm if its suitable for UG installation.
  7. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member


    Thanks for posting.  I have attached another photo (excuse the rubbish!) - this time showing the layout of both inspection covers and their relation to the Gulley pot in question.

    HA - I am too conserned about the fact i can wiggle the pipe around in the ground so think i need to cut up more of the path to see if it "Tees" in to the pipe coming from the inspection cover (from our upstairs toilet) and joining to the next one in the chain.  If its of any relevance, the soil pipe for the upstairs toilet which must be going to inspection cover 1 is inside the house next to the front door.

    I am thinking of cutting the rest of the path up and digging to get to this join - what do you guys think?



  8. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    dig it out, the fact that the pipe is loose might just be a failed clay join, or the subsoil below having sunk and no longer supporting the length

    only way to be sure is to expose more of the short length towards the tee, and hope it's not fractured back under the house
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Just want to check, could you lift Inspection chamber cover 2.  If straight through connection, that means the gully is intersected via a 'tee' as indicated by sketch.You wont neccesarily have to cut up 'whole' path.
  10. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    just digging it out where the tee should be, in the made ground - might allow a length to be slid under the path and jointed with access through the hole already cut in the path - but it would only take a minute to saw through what's left of the path to make it really easy
  11. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Got confused, thought he mentioned the 'whole' concrete path
  12. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member


    Fortunately the pot is the start of the run (there is no waste underneth the house). I will cut the rest of the path (heading for what i hope is a Tee join!) and dig the soil up to the tee - to see exactly what i am up against here.

    So, i am all set for running a new piece to the Tee, would i be correct in saying my shopping list will be:

    Clay to plastic adapter (more expensive than ebay seller although need it asap)

    A length of UG waste pipe (ideally not as much as 6 metres!)

    Bottle Gully

    Some pea gravel and a mix of cement

    Is it best to pop the plastic in with a bit of washing up liquid, or silicone on either the rubber reducer and sealing ring on the Gully or leave dry?

    Also, are there any building regulations/best practices i need to be mindful of here? I guess the gully top should be 50/100? mm below the path level? I take it the gully should have a fall to the Tee although i note "upstream" mentioned by Jitender.

    Thanks as always

  13. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Wont make difference whether stack run inside or outside of house - in which case it would enter the chamber on one end and exit 90 (degrees), so it would reveal a bend when lifting cover.
  14. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Have u checked insp. 2 to lier post regarding the use of washing up liquid!

    Just to confirm the bottle needs to be higher with fall. You will also need a good selection of bends,15,30,45s single and double socket - its hard to know what you will use and can always be returned.

    And then the appropriate clay to plastic adaptor, either Sean or mine.

    Note pea gravel: 100mm bed and 100mm backfill so more than a few bags worth - surprising how it gets used up.
  15. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    dig it out before you go shopping :)
  16. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Forgot to mention - you will also need to prepare each end of the cut pipe, either by saw, file, rasp or sander - thats if you already don't know.
  17. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    And an updated photo once pipework exposed - just be a bit careful while excavating, we don't want any more broken pipes!
  18. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Sean, Jitender

    Thanks for your help on this. I'll get cutting and digging (carefully!) later and will post back.

    No shopping until its been checked out ;)

  19. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member


    Put the hose pipe down the broken gulley pot and it does come out of manhole cover 2. :)
    Got the disc cutter and shovel out tonight and fortunately, the loose bit wasnt a length connecting where i thought it was but an elbow that drops in to the ground which is solid. :)

    Only problem is i think i got a bit carried away (see cut marks in photos) with the grinder and not sure if i will have to take the rest of the path up now! :'(

    So, will i have to dig down so the pipe isn't flush with the soil (shouldn't be too hard as its quite moist) and fit a boot on allowing me  to connect up my new plastic system, or can i slide something inside it?

    Any ideas on the gap between the gully pot and the level of path?

    Thanks as always,

  20. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Can you confirm that you have a clean square end of pipe spigot or not? second pic not clear. If so I would recomend this  I rang TS earlier and the operator said none of them are technically trainad, so rang McAlpine and said its fine for low level use. If you use the rubber flexseal you need more access as the clips need to be secured.

    I cannot find any regulation depicting the height of the hopper - I would say keep it 1-2" from wall. You can have it recessed as you say or there is the option of buiding a small border around so it creates an enclsoure and then bench in concrete to suit.

    Try and sit the bottle on a small slab (8"). You wont require much pipe - did you say you have some - SF do singles on these.

    As mentioned earlier you need an assortment of bends on site to try which one works best, the bottle  needs to be sat level on both axis.

    I am lucky in that I have a SF and now TS trade counter within a miles reach.

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