Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by jld142, May 10, 2018.
See the below pictures, showing the repair work, the wires that were cut through and the wires/crimps used to repair.
With all due respect Jld the 2nd picture shows a reg breach..m8 you need a sparks tbqh.
Totally agree with you. I have someone scheduled to come in and look. Just wanted to give people some visual context to my original question. @Bazza-spark, @dobbie, hope this helps.
Do you know from the pictures of the wires whether these were main ring? My partner seems to recall them mentioning lighting mains.. doesn’t mean much to me haha
I have also never been satisfied. Think we have had limited options before whereas (like you mentioned), splicelines give much more confidence.
Looks like 1.5mm lighting t&e to me?
The crimps don't look to have been crunched properly, and no way would you get 2.5mm2 into those crimps like that.
These things are only one step away from a twist with the pliers and insulation tape. Leave em back in the USA where they originated, might be OK for their fat free electricity, but useless on our 'real' stuff.
Why not just replace them with Wago Electrical Connectors?
Just to provide an update. I had a certified electical company round. The fix that had been done on the wires was acceptable and perfectly reasonable. They were lighting cables and had been crimped correctly. As they are crimped I am ok to plaster over now so all is good.
Wow, I am surprised. May be properly crimped cables are "OK", but I have my doubts re crimping on solid core cables...must be one heck of a crimp with a lot of pressure in order to distort the cores.
Lol Jid..are you saying that the electrical company said the above is ok to plaster in and aligns with regs? Ure aving a giraffe Jid..
How can anyone tell whether those connections have been crimped correctly??? Or even crimped incorrectly?
I’m not replying directly to the OPs post here and I’m only diy, agreed but, all this worry and negativity about using crimps on solid core, I just don’t get it, really
Agreed, always use a descent ratchet crimper, not just a pound land crimper you squeeze and the handles bend !
But why do the crimps have to exert enough pressure to distort the cores ?
Ever used those Ideal Spliceline connectors ? (Or similiar connectors now available) Just strip end of cable and push into connector - no pressure needed
The connector spins round on the core without a problem and is even demountable - and used correctly, possibly within an enclosure, they fully comply with regs
Even Waggos and similiar with the levers, yep sure they add a little pressure to the connection but surely not enough to again distort the solid core
But yet the Waggo (or similiar rip off connectors) are becoming the No. 1 choice compared to choc blocs and JBs
Loads of light fittings have similiar spring connections now, just push in cable, job done
I’ve used crimps several times, always give the cables a good tug to ensure a good connection
Ok let’s be honest, I’ve got no test equipment (other than a neon screwdriver) (let’s not even go there) but the ‘tug test’ satisfies me (non scientific I realise)
So how do crimps differ that much to all these newish cable connectors that are maintenance free, and just rely on a slight pressure from a spring terminal and perhaps a lever for good measure - all usable with solid core cable
The cable to the side of that box is not in zone - how a certified electrical company said everything is ok and it is alright to go ahead making good is highly questionable - cant comment on crimps because dont use them tbqh.
unless that box is very close to the corner of the room so it somehow sneaks into a zone - yes absolutely agree.
Very different. Crimps rely on the ductile properties of the crimps - the metal is deformed into a position where it "grabs" the conductors so any further deformation can reduce the pressure and loosen the connection. If the crimp is serrated for example, then the conductor is less able to pull out if the crimp loosens a bit.
MF connectors have sprung connections so a good pressure is assured.
Why not? I understand that a "safe zone" runs to left, right, above and below:
Overall though, I would not be happy with that "repair".
unless there is something else we cannot see, then the cable seem to leave the zone on the side of the switch, that's the concern I think.
It is "borderline" and just on the edge, maybe in, maybe out and could depend on the socket installed.
I've seen that done before - running cables up/across a wall right next to a back box to use the "safe zones". However when someone removes the socket/switch they will not see the cable and an accident waiting to happen.
As I said, I would not be happy with that overall.
Maybe, chisel out a little more and fit a single blanking plate to widen the zone and make the repair visible.
Separate names with a comma.