Replacement ceiling

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by alteredpanic, Apr 12, 2019.

  1. alteredpanic

    alteredpanic Member

    So I am replacing the ceilings in the dining and front room as they are covered in artex (which I hate - but gotta love the 70s and 80s) and I wish to fit downlighters, and they have cracks in them as well. I am happy with replacing the plasterboard (going to use tapered edges so I can tape and fill them) as well as the electrics for the downlighters. My question however is this.

    I wish to put some insulation between the joists to firstly, dampen the noise of the kids screaming at their computers but also to just help keep the house warm(er). What insulation should I use for that? The joists are 44x175. Would loft insulation be ok? What thickness would be ideal to use as I assume I would still need to leave an air gap? Would insulation boards be better as they obviously wouldnt sag and again, if so, what thickness of insulation boards would work without paying for extra thickness which wouldnt really give more of a gain.
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Warning Artex from 70s & 80s contained asbestos, so I would over board ceiling instead.
     
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  3. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    and I wouldn't use tapered and just fill the joints, unless you are going to paper the ceiling. If you paint it you will see the difference in textures between raw board and filled as it catches the light. You could put lining paper up but that's a faff. I would re-board it and then get a spread in to skim it up.

    Re the artex. Either send off a sample to be tested first, or +1 for overboard.
     
  4. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    If you insulate between the floors you will lose any referred heat upstairs so the room above will feel colder than it was. The children will migrate downstairs and plug something alternate into the back of the TV to play on and you will have lost any advantage. Well, not quite, the children will be warmer in the lounge.
     
  5. 14th edition

    14th edition Well-Known Member

    Overboard and skim!
     
  6. Jamessmith1875

    Jamessmith1875 New Member

    Totally agree. Rule out any asbestos
     
  7. alteredpanic

    alteredpanic Member

    Your words of wisdom are all duly noted. Thank you everyone - I will do as you all advise.
     
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  8. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    Thank you. I do like it when people come back on and thank the contributors that have offered help or advice. It's not always this harmonious but you didn't ask a seemingly innocuous electrical question - well you did actually but the electricians didn't notice. Phew!
     
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  9. alteredpanic

    alteredpanic Member

    Il count my lucky blessings then with the electricians.

    And you are welcome - I do try to thank those that help.
     
  10. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Well-Known Member

    Overboard will help with sound deadening from above. Could use acoustic (blue) pb but it is very heavy.

    Use a quality dust / respirator and full face goggles running cables and cutting down lights.

    If money is tight skip the plaster skim until you win the lottery.
     
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  11. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Use 12.5mm plasterboard.
     
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  12. alteredpanic

    alteredpanic Member

    That was going to be my very next question - what thickness of board should I use. I can do the wiring from above by lifting the floorboards which will make it easier to run the wiring and install everything.

    What would you suggest is the best way to find the existing joint direction and their spacing? Making small holes in the existing ceiling and doing some probing?
     
  13. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    You don't necessarily need to use 12.5 to overboard a ceiling- 9.5 is fine and easier to handle. If you can get at the joists from above, drilling little holes through adjacent to the joist is a good way to mark them so you can see them from below. Or, as you say, just poke some holes through and probe. No reason not to cut a decent sized hole with a hole cutter saw.

    When I overboarded a lath ceiling recently that wasnt perfectly flat (I couldn't drop it because I wanted to retain the plaster coving), I used instastik expanding foam on the 9.5 boards, then lifted them up and lightly screwed them in to place first to position them perfectly flat. once the foam had gone off, I nipped up the screws pulling all the heads into the boards ready for skimming. Not saying you need to do this, but it did make a really solid job.
     
  14. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Should have added that about 9.5mm,lighter to handle,just my preference.
     
  15. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    Use a magnet to find the screws/nails or lift the floor covering upstairs. It sounds like you're going to do that anyway.
     
  16. alteredpanic

    alteredpanic Member

    Thanks guys - love the idea of using magnets as well. Ive got a big neodidyim or (however its spelt) magnet, but I will be taking up the flooring upstairs anyway to run all the wiring etc. Love the idea of using foam to give the flexibility to straighten the boards out as well. I think I will adopt all your great words of advice. Thank you everyone.

    So, for my own clarity, its perfectly acceptable to knock a few holes in the ceiling to ascertain joists positions, to use 9.5mm plasterboard, spray foam to level them out against the artex which I was worrying would make it all wobbly and uneven, and then tighten the screws down properly once the foam is hard? Ive actually got one of those plasterboard hoists as I will be doing this by myself so figured it was a worthy investment (and I could always just flog it on a certain auction site when I am done with it to recoup some of the money)
     

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