Replacing a Floor - Best Material for Tiling

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by mrrodge, Oct 31, 2022.

  1. mrrodge

    mrrodge New Member

    Hi all, first post.

    I’m currently doing a job on my house where we’ve moved the kitchen and knocked together three rooms. The intention is to tile the floors (suspended timber) with natural stone, we’re looking at 15mm limestone.

    Before going out for quotes for tilers I’m hoping to get my head around exactly what needs to be done, so I get both like-for-like quotes and a quality job done that won’t crack. I’m also looking to prep the floor myself so could use an idea of what’s best.

    The joists are too small and badly fitted so I’ve already cemented them in at the ends and built masonry supports underneath at 400mm intervals. The structure is now pretty rock solid.

    One former room has 18mm T&G floor boards, unfinished and in fairly good condition. These will be screwed down.

    Another has 22mm T&G floor boards, previously varnished. Also to be screwed down.

    The third former room had 18mm chipboard that had gone spongy and was peppered with holes. This is being replaced (hoping for advice on what with).

    The 18mm T&G area is the biggest and goes through the rest of the house so this is the benchmark level (would rather not overboard all this if it can be avoided, plus it will create a bigger step onto carpeted areas). All the three areas are pretty much level with each other.

    So, what to replace the chipboard area with? Ply? Chipboard? 22mm and overboard the rest to maintain level? 18mm chipboard and overboard the lot with Hardibacker or something? Separation membranes needed? Flexible adhesive straight onto floor boards? All in all, a bit lost!



    Many thanks.
     
  2. AnotherTopJob

    AnotherTopJob Screwfix Select

    Tiling directly onto chipboard is not recommended, and where it was once common to tile onto ply, backer boards are now preferable.
    I think I would go for the same thickness of chipboard to replace the damaged floor, and then cover the whole lot with 6mm backer board on a solid bed of adhesive. That will take up any slight unevenness and give an excellent substrate to tile onto.
     
    mrrodge likes this.
  3. mrrodge

    mrrodge New Member

    OK thanks. In your experience is the step onto carpeted areas going to be too bad for me? I'm looking at 6mm backer with 15mm tiles plus adhesive, so that's well over an inch. Surely anyone with natural stone tiles will have the same issue?! The carpet underlay is 11mm and the carpet 10mm but obviously this compresses when walked on.

    Thanks again.
     
  4. AnotherTopJob

    AnotherTopJob Screwfix Select

    Your floor will be quite stepped but I don't think there's any alternative with 15mm tiles - I definitely wouldnt tile directly onto T&G.
    Maybe something like Ditra matting could be a thinner alternative.
     
  5. Abbadon2001

    Abbadon2001 Screwfix Select

    lift the carpet, put a layer of that solid green laminate underlay down (about 7mm I think?), then 12mm carpet underlay, then carpet, would bump the height up and reduce the difference without making things spongy?
     
  6. mrrodge

    mrrodge New Member

    Not an option unfortunately.

    Been looking at Ditra and I don't understand the situations where you'd pick that over backer board, or vice-versa.
     
  7. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    That’s not too much difference and very common. Use a Z bar threshold trim.
     
    mrrodge likes this.
  8. JimTiler

    JimTiler Active Member

    I would be looking to overboard the entire area's with 6mm Hardie backer, followed by Tilemaster anti fracture matting. This is less than 1mm thick but essential with natural stone on any substrate.
     

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