Replacing floorboards

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Tazmon, Jun 22, 2022.

  1. Tazmon

    Tazmon New Member

    I'm currently replacing floorboards in a room that measures about 7m wide. I think they've been replaced before is they don't exactly line up with adjoining boards and where there do join they seem to be cut at an angle. There was also a big patch job of chipboard. The existing board/planks are t&g but I'm replacing with planes all round planks 18mm thick and packing on each joist to raise the level. Screwed into each joist which are at roughly 10" centres. I've also noticed that there's a slight fall from the cut line which joins into another room which was an 80s extension (therefore I can't make this area level as it would leave a little step). The house is Victorian.

    I plan is to then lay 6mm ply, 3mm insulation and engineered board. Do people think this slight fall will later cause a creaking issue or will the engineered boards settle to it, I'm fine with the slight slope.

    I also need to reduce height in a small section of it, I just plan to use an electric planer. Good idea?
  2. Jiml86

    Jiml86 Screwfix Select

    So long as everything is screwed down securely and the joists have enough noggins creaking shouldn't be an issue.
  3. Tazmon

    Tazmon New Member

    I should probably mention that the engineered board finish was going to be glued at seems, not fixed to floor.
  4. Mr right first time

    Mr right first time Active Member

    I’ve seen people use that PU expanding glue under the boards before screwing down which will stop any creaking but I think it’s a bit overkill.
  5. Resmond

    Resmond Active Member

    Could you not skip the floorboards and just use a thicker ply? would save some time, maybe cheaper too.

    Engineered board just needs a flat surface not especially level, tho having it level does help when making it flat.

    How much of a slope is it? The door threshold gives you a little play in adjoining rooms
  6. Tazmon

    Tazmon New Member

    It walls about 10mm over 2000mm, is that 1 in 20???.

    I've started now so no going back!

    I assume the engineered board will settle with a slight bend in it?
  7. Resmond

    Resmond Active Member

    So about 35mm from one end to the other, pretty sure you can get a ramp threshold for that depth.. but as long as it’s flat (no gaps over 2mm under a 2m level in any direction) then there should be no need for bending, as the floor won’t bend it’ll have a bounce if not flat
  8. Tazmon

    Tazmon New Member

    Oh right, do you're saying level it and have a little ramp down into the next room?

    So far any gaps are around 2mm, might have found one that's 3mm

  9. Resmond

    Resmond Active Member

    It’s one option, but sloping can work too..
    Under 2mm is stated by manufacturers etc but you’ll get by with 3mm especially if it’s a decent t n g board, which are less prone to cracking than click systems
  10. Tazmon

    Tazmon New Member

    I think I have to live with a slope. Take a lot of packers and eventually the floorboards meet a concrete step which is also going to be boarded over. Seems that was cast to meet the slope. Or visa versa

    Attached Files:

  11. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Use a threshold strip designed for differing levels, to try to get the flooring to sit tight with a step or slope will most probably pop the joint sooner rather than later. Or ply the lower area up to level with the higher area.
  12. Tazmon

    Tazmon New Member

    Well I'm not laying the floorboards across the high point of the slope. The join is the top of the slope so to speak, so not being forced down. The engineered boards probably will but they're not fix to the floor.

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