Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Ban90, May 12, 2019.
So 3A and 13A last longer than 5A.
The electrician who was going to fit the oven and hob with the 13a fuse isn't available for the next few weeks. Due to needing an oven I contacted the other who still insists on cutting the plug off. I asked him why he can't just spur a single socket from oven connection or an fcu and wire the oven to that. He said it would be a fire risk to spur a single socket from the cooker circuit so looks like I'm waiting a few weeks with no oven. I've done spur sockets etc myself and I'm confident with that and considering fitting the oven and hob myself.
Better not to use the other one.
Fire risk, ROFL.
The bull that some so called electricians come out with...fire risk...jeez where do they get it from?
He seems to think that the socket wouod melt. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the ring for the kitchen is on a 32amp mcb and the cooker circuit is its own 32amp mcb. I k oe the ring is 2.5mm twin and earth anf the cooker circuit is 6mm. surely there should be no problems in using a single socket from the cooker connection point.
Where there is a gas hob and electric oven it is quite normal to spur a socket off the oven supply for the hob gas igniter.
How could it melt? The socket is rated at 20amp, the plug is fused at 13amp.
There’s more risk by chopping the (manufacturer fitted) fused plug off, IMO.
So to spur from the the cooker connection what size cable would be best? Same as existing 6mm?
6mm would be favourite, but 2.5mm would be OK as its only a very short run.
All you need to do is wire both appliances straight on to a cooker outlet plate. No need for plugs, sockets, fuses or any alteration to the flexes. It really is that simple. A fuse will do nothing to improve safety or contribute electrically to the set up. Over-thinking, over-complication is not helping matters. You are not being given constructive advice from the idiot you are asking to do the work. He has no clue what he is doing. The requirement by the manufacturer to fit a 13A fuse in the plug is more to avoid fitting a lesser rated fuse than anything else to ensure it won't pop when plugged in. It doesn't need a plug and socket, cut the damned thing off and wire it on to the outlet plate/dual outlet plate.
As bazza says 6mm would be the best.Either wait for the Electrician to come round or try and get another one to do the job properly.
The manufacturer stipulates a 13 amp fuse,so fit one, if you do not want to invalidate your guarantee should the case should arise that there is a fault with the oven.
Listen to the majority of the replies from different posters and it is to fit the fuse,which is correct,ignore the bad advice from the one who is going against the manufacturers instructions.
Ignore dobbie, I do.
Untrained you are giving out bad advice against manufacturers instructions.
unphased is probably right and telling you the simplest way to do it. That doesn’t mean you can’t spur a socket off the CCU if you want to.
How accessible is the CCU?
Would you like the possible future benefit of just being able to unplug the oven without disconnecting the hob?
Would you like having to remove the oven to replace a fuse?
Ideally each appliance would be connected by an easily accessible switch and fuse, but that might mean disruptive changes.
If you are really worried about damaging the manufacturer’s cable and plug, disconnect the cable at the oven end and replace with another cable. If you need to send the oven back just put the original cable and plug back.
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