Routing instrumescent strip in existing frame for fire doors

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Jitender, May 16, 2018 at 6:51 PM.

  1. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    As part of the loft conversion, i have to upgrade 2x doors downstairs to fire doors.

    Don't want to put the strip in the door as feel it would ruin the.

    I have a Katsu router which would be perfect to do it but the fence supplied wont go in an further, plus it too big height-wise as will hit the architraves.

    Sample of what I want to achieve. these linings were machine for me at the timber merchants.
    upload_2018-5-16_18-45-38.png

    Katsu router with guide.
    upload_2018-5-16_18-45-47.png

    Base of router with guide.
    upload_2018-5-16_18-45-58.png

    Door linings I want to route out for the strip.
    upload_2018-5-16_18-46-9.png

    Will be removing the door stops.

    Other than making a jig is there any other way to do this. I know the router wont reach upto the corners an the bottom of the frames, so will need to finish this by hand.

    Router has 4 screws which secures the plastic base to the bod of router, thinking I could make something with ply using these fixing points?
     
  2. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    Sorry if I'm being thick (highly likely) but won't the fence reach if you use the other hole?
     
  3. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Easiest to do door with one of these.

    https://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-intumescent-strip-cutters-ax834745
     
  4. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Think it might work, never used the fence and accessories for the router. The only thing it will hit the architraves, as they are set in 6-8mm from the edge of the linings.
     
  5. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    I've done them before on my HMO's with my 1/2" router. I cut some MDF to use as a fence and popped a few screws through into the frame and used a guide bush in the router.
     
  6. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    I can see that the bit you've linked to has a top bearing fitted, so will need a temporay guide fixed into the frame.

    I do have a large 1/4 router which is more accurate, but will be difficuklt holding vertical and upside down. The katsu is much lighter, but depth setting is a little crude.
     
  7. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Its designed to go around a door. So easy to use.

    If your door linings are perfect, then you may get away with using a fence along the frame. If not, a temporary fence is the way to go.
     
  8. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Looking to make a jig. Can use the base once unscrewed for the 4xfixing points.

    2x stops fixed to accommodate different thickness of linings.

    upload_2018-5-16_19-21-55.png
     
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Yes can see now as cutters on the side so follows around a door.
     
  10. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Going to be tomorrows project.:)
     
  11. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Ok

    I've built the jig and seems to work. Ordered a 15mm wide router bit

    Will upload pictures tonight.
     
  12. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Practice on scrap first. You only need a bit of unevenness or 'chatter' and you'll end up with a wonky slot. :confused:
     
    Jitender likes this.
  13. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    this is it.

    Only took me a small amount of time to make this using offcuts. Fixed a strip of wood on the top to act as a handle.

    upload_2018-5-18_17-19-42.png

    Underneath. Router has had plastic base removed and screws replaced. Need 2x longer screws to order. The pine strip wood acts as the fence.
    upload_2018-5-18_17-19-49.png

    Made the mistake of having the cord outlet positioned to the top :oops:, would have been better to the side.
     
    CGN likes this.
  14. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    For me if it's a reto fit then either the door gets a rebate for the intumescent strip or the lining comes out and gets replaced.

    Are you sure the lining is suitable for a fire door application? It should be at least 30mm thick and not made from materials such as Ash (no pun intended).
     

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