Running a 13a oven and 13a induction hob from existing 32a cooker radial.

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by jamesymurray, Mar 22, 2019.

  1. jamesymurray

    jamesymurray New Member

    Just in the process of decommissioning my ancient kitchen and replacing with new.
    The current oven is an electric fan unit.
    The hob is gas.

    I have a 32A circuit feeding this from the consumer unit (32A MCB, RCD protected).

    6mm T+E from the CU to the isolator switch. 6mm T+E from the switch to the CCU where the existing cooker is hard wired.

    There is then a 2.5mm spur off this to a fused CCU (3A) for the igniter (to be removed).

    My new oven is rated at 2.4kW/13A
    Induction hob is rated at 3kW/13A
    Both come pre-wired with 13A domestic 3 pin plugs.

    Given that the existing installation is 6mm all the way from the CU, how best to connect the two new appliances?

    Could the CCU be replaced with a double unswitched socket.

    The total length of 6mm cable is protected by the 32A breaker, and the length from the 3 pin plugs to the appliances would be protected by the 13A fuses within the plugs.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Change the cooker outlet back box to a dual box, and fit two single sockets in the dual box.
     
    seneca and MGW like this.
  3. jamesymurray

    jamesymurray New Member

    So there wouldn't be any reason to put additional FCU's between the isolator and the sockets? Can't see a reason why there would if all cable is 6mm to the sockets...
     
  4. spirits are real 2016

    spirits are real 2016 Screwfix Select

    no you don't need to put additional FCU,s in the supply just use the isolater but put in two single sockets as first suggested helps to share the load.
     
  5. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Screwfix Select

    The 'Additional fuses' you refer to are contained within the plug on the appliance. Nice and simple. 3kW is not much for an induction hob, how many 'hot plates' does it have?
     
  6. peter palmer

    peter palmer Screwfix Select

    Unless they come pre-fitted with moulded plugs then I'd just connect them both to the outlet plate.
     
  7. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    He did state
    The plugs should stay! Use two single sockets, rather than a double socket.
    Double sockets are only rated and tested to 20A, and there are many reports of double socket failure where higher-current devices - like these - are used over long periods of time.
     
  8. jamesymurray

    jamesymurray New Member

    Thanks all.
    Much appreciated, and saved a lot of unnecessary work
     
  9. Risteard

    Risteard Screwfix Select

    Unless the circuit is protected by a 30mA RCD then socket-outlets should not have been used to make the final connection (unless SRCDs were used).
     
  10. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    It’s always best to read the posts before posting something pointless …
     
    Bazza-spark, Comlec and Coloumb like this.
  11. Risteard

    Risteard Screwfix Select

    I made a simple statement which holds true, so your point is moot (which is about as good as your points ever get).
     
  12. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    Lolz, you didn't read the post properly and now your back peddling.
     
    Bazza-spark and Bazza like this.
  13. Bazza-spark

    Bazza-spark Screwfix Select

    It's his halo that is the problem. It has slipped down over his eyes blurring his vision.

    You all know he doesn't make mistakes!! ;);)

    (2 in as many days now lol)
     
  14. Oldmaster

    Oldmaster New Member

    How easy is it to loop the 6mm t/e from 1 socket to the other inside the dual box?
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice