Rust proofing

Discussion in 'Engineers' Talk' started by Sick on the Cat, Feb 12, 2005.

  1. Sick on the Cat

    Sick on the Cat New Member

    Yo, Does anyone know what the best way is to rust proof a classic car? Panels etc
  2. PowerTool

    PowerTool New Member

    Don't know if it's still on the go,but Waxoyl by Finnegans was good for doing underneath cars and inside body panels.
  3. sidewall

    sidewall New Member

    Yes waxoyl is the best stuff to use and it is still available, even in halfords. I would recomend getting the gun that you have to pull the trigger type of applicator with the can that looks like an old 5ltr oil tin with a handle and screwcap, not the pressure drum. I have both and the pressure drum that you pump up can be a pain in the **** when the hot oil cools in the tube and lance. However good waxoyl is though, it is best not to rely on it for protecting under wheel arches etc as it will gett washed off eventually. The best product I have found for such areas on my cars is made by the same people and will probably be found on the same shelf in the shop, it's like old underseal but much better, it stays flexible, has waxoyl's water repeling properties but stays where you put it. Don't worry when you pick up a tin of this stuff if it feels light it doesn't weigh much the tin isn't half empty.
  4. Sick on the Cat

    Sick on the Cat New Member

    I've seen that stuff in Volksworld, I got a old vee dub camper & as you may know they rust quicker than the 4th bridge. I'll be goin with Waxoyl and under the arches & this funny kinda stonechip/underseal stuff for the under side. You ever used the Wurth window sealant? Excellent for sealing panels in etc.
  5. sidewall

    sidewall New Member

    Have not used Wurth myself. On leaks round windows in the past I have just used normal silicone sealer, (as it comes in all the colours I have ever needed) there is even one that dries almost as clear as glass. Good luck with the job anyway ;)
  6. Shaggy Roj

    Shaggy Roj New Member

    In my opinion the best way is this company in Newbury, they use waxoyl but they also sandblast you car before hand and then spray/inject the underside/chassis as necessary.

    My friend has had this done to his 1993 Jaguar a couple of years ago (and still looks 100%) and i am seriously considering getting my old landrover done the next time it is running...............

    The only issue is cost For my landrover it costs £370 + VAT so i guess your camper would be similar. From what i have seen of my friends car it is brilliant and worth the money if you are going to keep the vehicle for any length of time.

    Goes against the DIY grain though. Just thought i should let you know the options.

    Have a look at his website and see for yourself.
  7. bigbadleo

    bigbadleo Member

    waxoyl 100% number 1 stuff
  8. engineer

    engineer New Member

    Worth a try,
    We have used a product for years in the offshore engineering sector call Ensis Fluid, marketed by Shell under different suffixes ie. Shell Ensis 101 or Shell Ensis 201 the only diffenerce is the viscosity, this fluid can easily be applied through a normal spray gun and if it can withstand offshore north sea conditions then preserving a car panel will be old hat. Available from any oil distribution dealer, DON'T BE AFRAID TO PHONE AND ASK IT IS STILL A SALE TO THEM (and far cheaper than Halfords)
  9. blackcountry

    blackcountry New Member

    hi twerp
    this may be a bit extreme and not to the finish you require, but when my van started showing signs of rust especially the front wings, i took them off and had them galvanised. i know that this probably is not an option for you but thought i'd mention it anyway. anyway its been 5 years and theres no sign opf rust at all.

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