Rusty nails in planters - do I need to remove?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by LV0210, Feb 16, 2016.

  1. LV0210

    LV0210 Member


    A few months ago I had a carpenter come in to build some planters for the garden. He built the carcass but had to leave due to personal reasons. I have now found a new carpenter to finish the job.

    I've had a look at the carcass that has been built and I can see all the nails have rusted due to the rain over the last few months. Do you think I should ask the new carpenter to remove them and put in new nails or are rusty nails not a problem? I think once the cladding goes on the planters they with hide the rusty nails.

    Grateful for your views on what to do. Thanks!
  2. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    If they're annual ring nails may be good, try taking a pallet apart :)
  3. If they'll be hidden, then don't worry.

    They would only be an eyesore, nothing else.
  4. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    Thanks for your replies.

    Would rusty nails cause any damage to the wood over time. Are they still as strong? Just wondering if they could snap.
    The planters have cost me a lot of money to build so they need to last a long time (10years+ at least). Plus very heavy plants and soil will be going into them.

  5. PaulBlackpool

    PaulBlackpool Screwfix Select

    If they are tight in the wood which they should be then they should not oxidise in their length but the heads will if left exposed. If they are big nails 4 to 6 inch then a little rust will not matter. The only ways round it are punch the heads below the surface of the wood and fill the holes or to use galvanised nails. If the heads are flush with the surface of the wood then you may get a little rust stain on the wood over time but it is not something to worry about IMHO.
  6. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    Thanks for your reply Paul. Sounds like I can leave them which is the answer I wanted to hear.
  7. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    a description of the construction or a photo will help.
  8. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    Sure, please find attached.

    Attached Files:

  9. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    What will it be clad in?
  10. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    One thing I'd be worried about there, is if the 2x2 will be strong enough over that length to stop the soil pushing it out.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  11. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    The materials are:
    tanalised planed softwood 75-50mm for carcassing
    Lined with DPM 1200ga
    Western red cedar for all cladding.
  12. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    Hi Mr. Handandy,
    2x2, I presume you are referring to the size of the nails that have been used? What should be used instead?
  13. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    That's the size of the timber.
  14. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    I apologize for saying 2x2(2"x2" timber). Maybe it is(69mmx44mm).

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  15. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    Ah, I see. That means that the carpenter1 did not follow the wood spec that I gave him from the garden designer. And I obviously did not know any different.

    What can be done at this stage by carpenter2?
  16. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Oh dear! had you considered drainage?:oops:
    Better to have used landscape fabric than DPM supported on a slatted base for drainage rather than a ply sheet.
    You could consider placing an edge around the top to cover over the rusty nails, something like 100mm x 20mm decking.
  17. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    It looks square to me.
  18. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Don't be too concerned. &5mmx50mm planed all round(PAR) comes out at 69mmx44mm. This may be where the confusion is.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  19. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    My first impression was that is was square. Looking closer, some looks square, some is a tad rectangular!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  20. LV0210

    LV0210 Member

    whew so all okay with regards to the wood then.

    I am going to ask carpenter2 to drill 20mm holes along the base for drainage. I have purchased Geocel the Works to apply around the perimeter of the holes to (1) protect the wood and (2) bond the DPM to the wood to create a plughole effect for the water.

    Does that sound okay?

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