Scribing a worktop for a perfect fit insode an alcove?...

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by T100, Dec 1, 2016.

  1. T100

    T100 Member

    Morning all!

    I have an alcove which measures roughly 2286mm x 750mm and I'd like to make it in to a workspace by fitting it with a worktop.

    I'm familiar with the scribing technique; however, I'm a little confused as to how I would do this baring in mind that the worktop is longer than the alcove and as a result, scribing the ends for a perfect fit will be difficult.

    How do I scribe a worktop which is bigger than the alcove to get a perfect fit?

    Many thanks!
  2. candoabitofmoststuff

    candoabitofmoststuff Screwfix Select

    I'd use a cardboard template.


    chipped1 and tore81 like this.
  3. Anything peculiar with this alcove? Are the sides wobbly, for instance?

    If not, then it's surely a matter of worktop width at it back, width at t'front, and angles of both internal corners?

    What am I missing?

    If there remains a teeny gap along each side or back, then that's what sili was invented for :)
  4. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    whats the wall made of?
  5. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Sliding bevel <
  6. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    The main difficulty is in the length and if it needs a sink cutout. as it won't be easy to wrangle it into an awkward space as it often leads to taking off enough to get it in.
    if the wall is brick and old plaster you can cut out the old plaster along the line of the worktop. Cut the worktop as near as you can to the brick depth and slide it in under the plaster. it gives you more room to manouvre and a nice finish. Otherwise its making a jig with scribed sheet materials.
  7. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Get some 9mm ply/mdf cut at a size that's over half the length of the alcove and a couple of inches more than the depth, then scribe it in to fit perfectly one side, either left or right. Once it fits perfect, cut it to exactly half the length of the alcove, set aside. Do exactly the same the opposite side, you now have two halves acting as a template for your alcove. Transfer these to your worktop, get one side cut, Mark the length but add on an inch or so, then cut the other side. Angle the worktop in and check the fit on either end, once happy cut the excess off one end. If you need a spot on fit, chisel part of the wall out to angle the worktop in, otherwise it'll jam as it's on an angle.

    A sliding bevel won't work accurately in this situation as it will only give you the angle over the length of it (about 10 inches). A big steel roofing square can be a help in this situation, but it's easily achievable without. Best of luck.
    tore81 likes this.
  8. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    If you reference off the front of your cabinets, you can measure it out using a 2ft square. Don't forget to take into account worktop over hang at the front though!
    This is taking into account that walls or straight if not necessary square :)
  9. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    I have done this plenty of times over the years failing, taking it in and out

    a bit more off, a bit more off too much. Messed it up.

    Similar to someone above I would use ply.

    Cut roughly in half scribe the right piece in good.

    Then get another just over half scribe that in till it looks right then either gaffa tale two pieces together forming your perfect template, or which I thought off just now mitre mate together. Or fix a batten fixing two pieces of ply together.

    I've used this method on a 4metre worktop so I know it works

    You know then it's exact.
  10. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I've not done this kind of thing before, but I agree with those above - best spend a bit of extra time and money on getting a plywood template spot on. You only do these jobs once but live with the result for years.
    tore81 likes this.
  11. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    It can be sometimes a bit over kill, if you fitting shelves day in day out. You could sliding bevel both sides etc. I used to do window cils. Window boards this way.

    I always used to have fingers crossed they would fit. Most of the time they looked good and sometimes sealant needed.

    But you can't go wrong with a template. If you have the time. A faster way is probably cardboard. I wish I knew this trick years ago

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