lay the skirting on its back in the chopsaw and make a 45 degree bevel cut cut to the edge with your jigsaw and back cut it if you need a perfect joint, scribe the lower section with a compass and use the jigsaw again
This is the way I was taught. Cut a right and left scribe on a piece of scrap skirting about 10" long and use this to mark all your scribes. Mark a square line and put your pattern piece to it to mark the scribed bit. The square line can be adjusted like deedsy says or by under or overcutting the 90 degree cut.
Blimey mr Kipling your method seems to be extremely awkward just to scribe skirting. I'm with Dirtydeeds on this one.
im with dirty deeds on that one mitre it then jigsaw the profile out cant get easy than that like he says theres a feel to it not many skirts without cups in em these days
Always scribe (where practicable) so that the scribed joint is away from your sight line when you walk through the door as well. So you would start off with the first piece fixed to the wall opposite the door and then scribe into it.
This topic is going to get messy again especially when Handy shandy starts spouting off about mitreing and not scribing. Good job us craftsmen got in first.
agree with yorkshireboy. template with l and r scribe on it etc. am i old fashioned - i like to cut the straight bit on chopsaw or panel saw and the moulded bit with a coping saw. jigsaw is quick but can be clumsy (in my hands at least)
agreed until an 8 or 10 tpi coping saw meets modern softwood where can i get a coping saw blade with 18 tpi
I agree with fatdragon. Cut the straight bit with saw and the profile with coping saw(keeping each cut slightly more off the back). How do you get on with the more intricate mouldings ? Mr. HandyAndy - really
intricate mouldings clamp the skirting to a work bench / workmate body hold jig saw run at high speed, low feed rate, brace right hand with left hand over right wrist and plenty of practice
Use of a decent coping saw always works for me. Mitre the skirting board so that the cross section of the profile is exposed,carefuly cut around the profile setting the angle back slightly. Pencil line around the profile if that helps. As mentioned, you can use a compass to mark the scribe or an off cut of the profile as a template. Any way works well wether using a jigsaw or coping saw, it just takes a bit of practice. Ive always found that the spear and jackson elcipse coping saws are very good for cutting softwoods or hardwoods, you can pick them up for around a tenner.
I still use a coping saw but to be honest i,ve never tried using a jigsaw.Doesn,t it splinter the face?
Ditto. I use a coping saw, though I know guys on site that use jigsaws. There's no reason why it shouldn't work with a fine & narrow width blade.
Gotta agree that using a router and jig IS overkill but if doing loads, once setup in the bench and plugged in would only take about 3 seconds for each scribe and it would be very neat. Your jig would have to be specific to the skirt moulding in question and adjustable for out of plumb walls but this all adds fun to the making process when your bored on a Sunday morning waiting for the pub to open. Either that, or sit on here and abuse people. The choice as they say, is yours,