Sealing hob to worktop

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Sean Hodges, Sep 2, 2004.

  1. Sean Hodges

    Sean Hodges New Member

    I just fitted a ceramic hob into a new worktop, and the only sealing supplied was a very narrow adhesive foam strip. It is far smaller than the recess on the underside of the edge of the hob.
    I would use silicone sealant, but the instructions for the hob warn you against this.

    I don't want spills leaking down through the join, so should I just ignore the warning and use sealant?
  2. freequote

    freequote New Member

    This is just a guess, I would think the reason they say do not use a sealant, just in case anything goes wrong with the hob and it needs to be taken out.

    Why not phone up the makers, tell them your concerns, see whst they come up with.
  3. Sean Hodges

    Sean Hodges New Member

    Thanks for the suggestion - I'll give them a ring.
    I wouldn't have thought it would be all that difficult to prise polished metal away from sealant, though.

    Maybe there is a more heat-tolerant sealant I can buy?
  4. freequote

    freequote New Member

    Yes I agree, it's easy to lift but would a service engineer be willing to break the seal and cause possible damage, no matter how remote that it would happen.

    Everyone covers their backs these days.

    Once you have the answer, don't forget to post it, I would like to know what the reason is, I've fitted a few and used silicon, with no comebacks so far.
  5. Sean Hodges

    Sean Hodges New Member

    Baumatic technical department just responded to my emailed query.
    "A silicone sealant cannot be used in the installation process of the B12 hob. Only the sealing strip can be used. The strip has to go on the edge of the appliance, then trim the excess off, very gently, as not to scratch the hob or work surface."

    i.e. follow the useless instructions, without any justification, and ignore my question about the unsuitability of the supplied sealing strip.

    I think I'm going to use silicone. It would probably be me that removed the hob in future, so I'll know what to do.
  6. freequote

    freequote New Member

    So still none the wiser.

    Can only repeat what I've already said about my use of silicon.

    Only hope someone does not post with a good reason not to use silicon or I can see me making a bulk purchase of remover and spending a week charging around removing hobs.

    Good luck ( to us both)
  7. nigel

    nigel Guest

    You can use plumbers putty under to aid seal.
  8. I would not use plumbers putty
    That stuff is a nightmare when it goes hard.

    I use butyl strip which roofing contractors have by the mile

    If you pass a big shed site ask for a roll

    Handy for lots of jobs


    remember and seal the dge of the cut out

  9. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    The reason/reasons silicon should not used to set down ceramic hobs is because of the possible heat generated
    which silicon is not really designed for. Secondly, and this might include some sink units, the bottom edge of the fitment is thin, and the weight of the fitment on fresh silicon(moreso if screwed down) would tend to pull the fitment right down to the worktop, thus destroying the intended seal.
    The strip supplied would remain under the edge of the hob
    even when pulled down. You could(after trimming the strip)
    seal with silicon, knowing that the strip is proving the main joint.
    Handyandy - really
  10. I can't understand your problem, if the cut out is the right size for the appliance then the information from the techies is good.


    Put the hob in place, draw round it with a pencil, remove the hob, place the tape so it straddles the line, put the hob back in place, cramp it down with the fixing clips, trim of excess tape.


    Turn the hob over, fix the tape (I've assumed its self adhesive, as I've never had one that isn't), turn the hob back over, fix in place etc.
  11. Sean Hodges

    Sean Hodges New Member

    The problem is that the tape is about 1mm thick, and 5mm wide, and looks too insubstantial to provide a good seal. After reading all the advice on this board I'm now very aware of how important it is to stop water getting in anywhere (yes I have varnished the edges of the cutout).
    So, I will use the tape provided, but I'd prefer to have something else under the edge as well, for a reliable water-tight seal.
  12. Alex England

    Alex England New Member

    Can I add a question please? I'm a 46-year old linguist, just fitted my first kitchen with help from boyfriend, a clothing wholesaler. So no professionals here. We put the hob in but I didn't seal the edge cos I thought there would be a seal on the top side of the worktop. Now it's in and I'm afraid to get it out and start over cos I'm worried I'd damage it getting it out. Can I put a thin line of silicone around the edge of it just to keep water out? I mean, not a fixing-in-place amount, just a thin bridge between the worksurface and the hob edge? Apart from problems getting out later (will be me doing it) would I be putting us in danger of any sort? I'm not worried about invalidating warranties on a financial level, just about things that might cause fires and so on. Thanks in advance for any help+ advice.
  13. BillyBobToo

    BillyBobToo Active Member

    Wow! This must be getting on for a resurrection record! A nearly 17 year old thread.
  14. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

  15. Kim Parker

    Kim Parker New Member

    We used the seal that came with the hob. You fix it to the underside of the glass hob and it works as a cushion for the glass hob.

    I think it works perfect as you can lift it to clean it. I personally wouldn't recommend glueing it down. But it's probably to late for this advice but for anyone who is reading this. Stick with the tape.

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