Seeping push-on end stop - inaccessible position. How to fix?

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by SteveMJ, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. tightenit

    tightenit New Member

    If I were called to the job I would take the pipe back to good and replace such as necessary - including soil repairs if need be. A plumber who pops in and pushes the pushfit back with a whistle and a twenty sheet, 'wink wink' to you guv will be the last person there if it pops off and drenches yer cornflakes downstairs. Very expensive drink for the plumber I fear.
     
  2. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

     
  3. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

    It al depends Tightenit, if the push fit has never been seated properly then pushing it on firmly often sorts it out, I do agree though that its better to sort the bodged pipework in the first place -  but there is nothing to be lost by the OP giving it a quick lever to see if that sorts it for now - long term it needs ripping out.
     
  4. SteveMJ

    SteveMJ Active Member

    I've finally cut a large section out of the soil pipe as it has glued joints at each end of the section I needed to remove.
    I unsoldered all the joints but had to cut off the stub with the push ?on to allow the soldered Tee to slide off.

    Meanwhile I got 22mm soldered elbows (22mm compression elbow too).  I then found out that the existing pipes are ¾? ? bu&&er!
    I fiddled about for a while more after trying to locate a plumber?s merchant that was open after 1pm - without luck.
    At the moment I am only a little further forward.

    Some of you will be pleased to hear that I?ve called a couple of plumbers for help.  If I haven?t got the parts then I cannot proceed.
    Could 22mm compression be made to fit ¾??  I think I saw a video clip by Tom Plum about that ? but can?t find it after searching.
     
  5. G Brown

    G Brown New Member

    Yes by using 3/4 " olives.
     
  6. You've gone this far with it Steve, so keep going!

    I think (but ain't certain) that you can buy slightly larger olives to make up the difference. (Was true of plastic fittings where you could get thicker 'O' rings...). There's a fair chance you could also tighten down your current 22mm fittings enough, but it's possible that the nut could 'bottom out' before the olive is compressed enough (not sure about any of that, tho').

    Surely there are sheds - Wickes, B&Q, etc - open tomorrow where you can get 3/4" fittings to finish the job?  Will still be a lot cheaper than calling out a plumber - and you are half way there!
     
  7. SteveMJ

    SteveMJ Active Member

    Thanks G Brown

    Will go to look through box of old stuff - not hopeful though.

    (food due too)
     
  8. SteveMJ

    SteveMJ Active Member

    Thank to my Dad (now long past away) I found a ¾? reducing Tee (just like the one I had removed) plus a ½? stop and a short section of 15mm or ½? pipe.  I fitted all this with the ½? stub sticking up so I could get spanners onto it, to tighten.

    So far no leaks.

    In the meantime I heard back from the professionals; one guy doesn?t plumb, he works fro a group of plumbers on white goods.  The other has a ¾? elbow that I could pick up tomorrow.

    As I?ve had success I?ll text them to say thanks, but no thanks.

    In the meantime, I?m going to have a hot bath :) and wait to see for any seepage before I fit the soil pipe tomorrow.

    Thanks for everyone?s input.  WHEN it?s all good I?ll let you know.

    Have a good remainder of a weekend, Steve
     
  9. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Don't flush the toilet! :eek:

    Oh, and check that your bath doesn't run into that soil pipe.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  10. SteveMJ

    SteveMJ Active Member

    Son came back from pub, texted him, spoke to him - guess what!!!  Yep, another session of cleaning the kitchen!!
     
  11. SteveMJ

    SteveMJ Active Member

    Hurrah :)

    Soil pipe now fitted and no leaks (bit hard to push joint rubber seal over edges - a good dollop of silicone grease helped.

    For anyone's interest photos below.

    I now will wait a while to all dry out and refit woodwork and tiles.

    THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP, ADVICE ans SUPPORT + plus Mrs M-J for cuppas.

    Steve

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. G Brown

    G Brown New Member

    Much better! A solder stop end would be even better but that looks OK to me!
     
  13. Might be worth leaving it uncovered for a few days since there will be air trapped in that upright bit - and, if there's still a teeny leak, that would have to seep out before any water does. Which there won't be, of course...
     
  14. SteveMJ

    SteveMJ Active Member

    It has all been left uncovered to allow floorboards, plaster etc to dry out.

    I've noticed a small leak on the 'old' solvent glued joint on the right hand side; one or two drips per flush.  :-(  So I will try to seal that with some more solvent glue, clearly I can only add this to the outside, instead of deep inside the joint.  I think I had better check the Tee joint into the waste stack too.

    My question opened above with my trying to avoid losing my weekend - I did lose it, but it is all up and running for the Mrs when I went to non-plumbing work this morning.

    Out to pub tonight; I?m buying drinks and meal for the mate that called around on Saturday. :)

    Mrs gave me 'brownie' points for being so dogged to get it done - I'm sure this will equate to being stubborn later on!

    Cheers, Steve
     
  15. G Brown

    G Brown New Member

    There is a different solvent adhesive for applying externally, a thicker one.
     
  16. Will the section of pipe with the solvent weld rotate at all? If so, might be worth trying to tunr it around so's any leak - which is likely to be in the lower half - is now out of most of the potential water level. Also, solvent won't work very well if it's wet .

    That bit of plumbing is really out to get you, isn't it...:'(

    What does the soil pipe do to the right of the basin pedestal? If it all starts being a pain to sort out, or you have any suspicion that the soil pipe join is dodgy, then bite the bullet again and replace the whole section...

    (There's another thread on here for your attention, suggesting that the 'dead leg' (I think it's called) could be a health hazard as stagnant water could build up germs.  I don't see this being a problem in your case as the leg is short and upright - I suspect the flow of water going past that area will cause enough turbulence to replace the water each time. Anyways, it was ok before...)
     

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