Self Levelling over old adhesive

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by cybervic, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Good point,I also found it can vary between the different brands the amount of water needed.
    I tend to use Setcrete,so you get to know it's habits.
     
    cybervic likes this.
  2. cybervic

    cybervic Member

    I added 2 cup of extra water but now I know it wasn’t enough.

    It’s fully dried now, and the after removed the spots it reveals air bobble underneath.

    image.jpg

    If I coat it again just 1mm-2mm, will those bubble holes be covered well without producing more air bubbles?

    Do I have to SBR again or can I use the same SLC straight on top.
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    SLC straight on top should be ok.
    But, I would make up a very small amount,make it slightly wetter, just enough to float trowel or even flexible plastic scraper to work it in over those holes & fill them.

    Leave to dry & see what it's like,might get away with skimming whole area.
     
    cybervic likes this.
  4. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    I’m wondering for these small repairs if Ardex Feather Finish will be the best way forward

    No primer needed between the SL and Ardex, dries quickly, can sand it easily, and as the name implies, feather edges down to zero

    Expensive though

    Was it a very hot day when you poured the SL ?
     
    cybervic likes this.
  5. cybervic

    cybervic Member

    Ty Dave, kitchen was a warm when I was coating it, around 22c I think.

    Tried to repaired bubbles with watery mix, so glad I did this (thx KIAB) because they resurfaced again so I was able trowel/push SLC to the holes.

    One thing I noticed is that there are more air bubbles in the watery mixture I hand mixed in small cup. Not sure if it’s normal, but I am gonna try SLC again before using Ardex Feather finish.
     
  6. Ben C

    Ben C New Member

    I would give it a good scrape (or sand if you can) and a few coats of feather finish.
     
    cybervic likes this.
  7. cybervic

    cybervic Member

    Ben C, you are right, I wish I knew it could be sanded down easily.
    I coated it again last week, managed to trowel out the bubbles but it started to set around 15 minutes so I panicked and left some trowel mark in the last area near entrance.
    I was gutted and thought I'd have to buy a carbourundum stone to sand it down, however a low grit sanding block works on SLC (to my surprise) and it's now very even.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  8. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    I have levelled my kitchen floor but was concerned about what to use as it's concrete, more of a screed and no dpm. That put me off using a lot of them the more I looked around for information. I finished up using a bostic one that's suitable for external use. I believe some are cement based so may be ok for this as well but cement based - just a comment I saw somewhere that left me wondering which ones aren't.

    Only mentioned as people who want to level a floor may have the same problem. I also needed a pretty thick coat and it didn't dry any where near as fast as they suggest. It may not be suitable for a very thing coat and in some ways needs some help to level.

    John
    -
     
    VickyL likes this.

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