Can you access the loglap from inside ? It may be possible to screw diagonally through the uprights into the logs
Rusty nails or bleed marks afterwards from the holes in the wood, nice little ring marks where the hammer hits the wood log lap is of varying thickness and quality and driving a nail near the end can split it. Also unless you are using ring shanked nails they can be pulled out quite easily.
I suppose that would happen if you were not competent,however if it was getting secret nailed I would prefer a hammer to a paslode.
With loglap planks, it is sometimes difficult to get a long enough/ strong enough fixing which doesn't does show, damage the tongue or split the timber. A paslode would be difficult to use for secret nailing on this - which is why a lot of people fire them through the face.
Morning gents, Thanks for all the posts. K - I guess I could hire a nail gun but if its just speed being the benefit(?) then happy to hammer them in. The Log lap is 20mm thick so what do you guys think about something like this: https://www.selcobw.com/selco-annular-ring-shank-nails-65mm-2-5kg Also, shall I allow 40mm extra on each run to allow each join to butt? Will this need protecting from the weather or will it be ok? Finally, any preferences to toungue in the up/down position? Thanks for reading
Tongue up, the water can't lay in the groove. And some peeps remove the tongue on first board under eaves, would also check how the T&G fits, so with a short offcut workout how the boards will go down the side, you don't want to end up with a thin slither of T&G at the bottom, it's better at the top.
When you lay out T&G you might be able to trim first board to completely loose any slither, also don't end you T&G flush with bottom of wall let it overhang a slightly, will stop any water running back under & into your shed.
this is where i am at the moment with it (thanks for all the help along the way) made two double doors from 4 x 2 and used stainless hinges which need to open and close one following the other so unable to lock the one from inside and lock the other to that, so guess i would be looking at something like this to secure (what do you guys think?) http://diometonline.co.uk/home-and-garden/home-security-products/shed-security-bar
Rather impressive shed Would have fitted 3 hinges per door. Do like that security bar you linked too, make sure you have steel reforcement plates inside as well for fixing bolts.
Thanks K and thanks for all your help!!! I was debating on 3 per door but the manufacturer says they are good for 100kg doors but there is always the warp factor I guess.
Trouble is, I'm old school so tend to over engineer things, but it's a weighty door, so I fit three hinges like you do a fire door, .
Hi Fats, with the security bar you're thinking of buying, what is your idea to stop the door being kicked inwards?