Single skin brick shed DPC

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by El Spavo, May 14, 2022.

  1. El Spavo

    El Spavo New Member

    Hi,

    There are a few other threads on here skirting around some questions I have, just didn't want to hijack them so apologies if this seems repetitive...

    Want to build a single skin brick shed, about 3x2.5 roughly and my thoughts are on the DPC and pillars for strength.
    a) Corners are the strongest point, obviously, but on a shed that size (ie. not that big) do I need to be putting pillars in the corners and midway along the wall?
    b) I'm planning on using a UPVC patio door that's getting taken out in the house refit. I get quite often you put a pillar in next to the door for strength... would this be likely applicable for the double patio door seeing as it'll take up a fair whack of the the 2.4m length?
    c) DPC... was thinking 2 or 3 courses of engineering bricks, but do I need to be using anything else? In a comical way, I've never got my head round how DPM keeps the above structure in place as they're completely stopping/breaking the brick bond and its pure weight that keeps it all from sliding off like in a cartoon, but seriously I'd be concerned that a single skin shed would be less stable as it's not got as much heft as a house and is effectively floating separated from the base with DPM. But am new to using engineering bricks as an alternative for a small build... so are they more than adequate and possibly the correct choice, let alone an option for this project?
     
  2. Abrickie

    Abrickie Screwfix Select

    A. Corner are buttressing no need for pillars, corner to corner 3m on longest run no need for pillar in middle
    B. A patio door in a 2.4m run is a substantial opening, so pillars either side
    C. 2 course of engineering bricks is acceptable as a dpc in the building regs.
     
  3. El Spavo

    El Spavo New Member

    Lovely, that's the sort of concise reply I like! :D Many thanks. Presumably, if I went for a single door instead, I'm still just pillaring either side to strengthen.

    Just a thought, but any reason I can't put whatever variant door I eventually pick right up to the corner to save adding another pillar very near to a corner?

    Glad to think my head is along the right lines as well.
     
  4. Abrickie

    Abrickie Screwfix Select

    If the door is within 390mm of the corner you need a pillar regardless of opening size ;)
     
  5. El Spavo

    El Spavo New Member

    Cool, thanks. Likely it will be.

    Not quite sure how to explain this one, but if I wanted to chuck the door right into the corner, I obviously wouldn't just secure it to the flank wall and make it one half of the corner, BUT if I built the corner so it just turned, then ran one full brick length and then was the aperture for the door, would that corner need to be a pillar or just the fact it's a corner and then such a small run up to the door frame be sufficient? (I know I could just build the corner as a pillar and mount the door to that, but I'm just curious if it would be strong enough as a corner in itself)
     
  6. Abrickie

    Abrickie Screwfix Select

    If I understand you right, you would have 2 bricks from the corner, more than 390mm so no pillar ( assuming single leaf door)
     
  7. El Spavo

    El Spavo New Member

    I'm just thinking, as you look at the front, one brick out then the other course would be the side profile of the flank wall and one bat. But effectively the same, yes.
     
  8. Abrickie

    Abrickie Screwfix Select

    So 1 brick wide, it needs to be 1 brick by 1 1/2 brick, so just be sure to return it a brick and half down the flack wall ;)
     

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