Skimmed

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by gswainyboy, Mar 18, 2018.

  1. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    Hi all.I am removing bath and all existing tiles and fitting 1m x 1.2m shower in its place.below bath level is still blockwork and tiles heve come off fairly cleanly above. The rest of bathroom is being skimmed. What is the best thing to do with shower walls.If 'skim the lot', how long should it be left before tiling and which sealer is best.Thanks in advance.Graham
     
  2. sospan

    sospan Well-Known Member

    You will probably need a couple of coats of plaster on the bottom half to build up to the same thickness as the top, then at least one skim coat. If there are areas going to be painted rather than tiled, then it is normal to apply a top coat which is "polished" to give it a feel like a marble. Obviously not required where it is tiled but most good plasterers will prefer to go wall to wall.

    My rule of thumb is to not judge it by time but by colour - wait until you have a fairly consistent colour all over. It should go from dark pink to a light pink.
     
  3. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Are you fully tiling the bathroom and what tiles are you using?
    Be careful, as skimmed walls are exactly what you don't want in many cases.
     
  4. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    Thanks for that sospan. Thanks also CGN,she wants the rest of the bathroom emulsioned.She is still looking at tiles but would it be better not to skim where it is to be tiled ? If so just get the plasterer when he is doing the rest of the room,to build up lower section so all is level before tiling ?.
     
  5. I personally wouldn't skim the shower cubicle area since plaster ain't waterproof - what's the point? There must be better alternatives such as tiling 'aquaboard'(?) which would obviously need to be secured properly to the bare walls.

    If I were DIYing this for myself, I think what I'd probably do is render the cubicle area in sand/cement with a dollop of added waterproofer. Doesn't need to be smooth, just completely flat and level. Tile straight on top.
     
  6. sospan

    sospan Well-Known Member

    It depends on how damaged the wall is. Some tilers insist on a perfectly smooth and flat wall, others will work with it. A lot depends on if you are doing yourself ?
     
  7. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Yes get it skimmed, where its being painted to get nice smooth walls.

    Plaster skim can carry about 22kg per square metre which isn't really suitable for the majority of porcelain if your fitting them?

    You also don't want to be tiling on to undercoat plaster such as bonding or hardwall which the plasterer will.probably use to build up to the existing level. Some leave it like that saying its fine as its being tiled over, others may then skim the whole wall.

    Most plasterers don't know much about tiling or will go by misinformation handed down through the years.
     
  8. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    Cheers CGN.I am now thinking of chopping back area to be tiled and waterproof boarding
     
  9. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    As suggested by DA
     
  10. sospan

    sospan Well-Known Member

    Most cement board, must be fixed to battening system against the walls. This is because most boards let the moisture pass through and need the ventilation space to allow the moisture to wick away harmlessly. Hardiebacker can be fixed to the wall but the wall must be flat and even
     
  11. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    Once again thanks for the good advice sospan.maybe my best bet is to get a local tiler in to quote so that I get an idea from them as to what needs doing when it is plastered. cheers again
    Graham
     
  12. sospan

    sospan Well-Known Member

    No problem, asking them how they want the wall prepared will avoid the "I wouldn't have done it like that" comment but at least you have a lot of ideas to play around with. Although if he mentions PVA - show him the door pronto :D
     
  13. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    So....NO PVA then haha. Decided thats what I will do.Cheers
     
  14. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    Sorry,still baffled.one said he wanted it skimmed,one said not skimmed so now I dont know quite how to go about it.Just dont seem to get a straight answer
     
  15. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Yes, confusing :)

    What tiles are you fitting?

    I'm doing a bathroom refurb at mo.

    Stud walls, with one dabbed external wall.

    600x300 porcelain tiles floor to ceiling on all walls.

    Bathroom was only part tiled before, but easier and quicker to remove all PB, than try and prep it for tiling.

    Around bath/over bath shower, fitted 12mm Hardie backer which was then water proofed with a brush on tanking. Tbh, there are better and more modern alternatives to HB, but its readily available from most suppliers.

    All other walls were fitted with moisture resistant PB (green). Could have used standard PB, but for the area involved, negligible cost difference in the grand scheme and the customer feels better.

    Tile straight on to bare PB. Only thing skimmed was ceiling.

    If the tilers can't advise you, then keep trying, till you find a tiler ;)
     
  16. gswainyboy

    gswainyboy Member

    Hi CGN.Thanks again.Tiles are also similar size to yours but ceramic and 9mm thick so heavy.I think,like you,I will Hardie backer below bath level to bring it up to even it up.Will leave rest of the walls to be tiled as the tiles came off here clean so it is sound and level.Cheers again CGN and good luck with yours
     

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