Sliding Cupboard Doors

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by MadDesigner, Dec 11, 2003.

  1. MadDesigner

    MadDesigner Member

    Firstly may I say hello to you all. This is my first post though like many I have been avidly reading the very helpful posts and topics on this forum

    My query is, I am making (about to) some sliding doors to fill the gap between the top of our wardrobes and the ceiling (approx 475mm x 3.5m). I wish to make these (seven doors, each 400 x 500mm) out of 3mm MDF or Ply. The trouble I'm having is to decide on a system in which these doors can slide. They are light weight and would only be used to store suitcases, shoe boxes and that things of that ilk, so they will not be in daily use etc.

    I have been looking at the aluminium "W" shaped stuff you can buy in the likes of B&Q/Homebase, but there is bound to be a better product than this.

    Any help/advice most welcome.


  2. WOLF

    WOLF New Member

    there is plastic or the ally channel available,the bakalite lookalike one is a system called "TONK" strip, used in professional cases etc, but is expensive.. or you could even do what i have done and make your own... however having said that there is a thing or two to remember about sliding doors, and that is that the deepest track goes to the TOP ONLY, as this is the one that you have to insert the door into first, then insert the bottom of the door in to the base track..the rear door /s must be inserted from "within " the unit/cupboard, and the front from the front(obvious i know, but some do still make this mistake). the height of the doors is measured only after the tracks are in situ, as it is easiest... measure from inside the base track, to approx 5mm above the top track.. cut a piece of timber as if making the full door, and test that it can be inserted into the tracks as afore mentioned.. if easy, you can increase the height a bit etc, if tight or not able to insert the timber, reduce 1mm at a time..
    trust the above is helpfull
    regards matt
  3. MadDesigner

    MadDesigner Member

    Thanks for the input WOLF. Yeah I realise about the top channels having to be deeper than the bottom, but the trouble I'm having it getting channels of different depths. I might investigate the TONK stuff, or just kinda construct the doors in situ with equal channels top and bottom and hope in never have to remove them :(
  4. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Hi MD,

    If I can add another suggestion here. The bottom channel does all the work so a plastic solution is best. The top channel is mostly a guide slot and you could cut this with a router or construct a channel with strips of wood glued and pinned to form a deep channel. If you do have a router it might look neater to cut a channel to sink the plastic track out of sight in the bottom rail.

    Hope this helps.

    Gotta go Corrie's just started


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