Solid oak flooring - do I need underlay

underlay is more for laminate or engineered
your using solid on wood so as you said just nail it
but be carefull of the hearth as its concrete, pva it lay a damp proof membrane (plastic sheet) and on this occassion just direct fix ply to floor

 

Probably no need for a barrier underneath the hearth but better to be safe.Use Gripfill/No more nails/etc on the concrete.
mack

 

what is hearth made from=concrete what does concrete do to wood or what does the wood do on concrete absorb the moisture =cupping
i would always direct fix, peace of mind and all that

 

you def need underlay

 

why

 

Yeah most manufacturers now say dpm combi underlay on all groundfloor installations.
On concrete floors was always the norm but the train of thought these days on suspended timber floors is that the air circulating in the space below the floor is cold and damp so dpm is used.
Also the underlay will reduce squeaking and creaking between the new floor and the subfloor when it expands and contracts.
I would nail directly to floorboards but only if running at 90 deg, not if you want run in the same direction.
As for the hearth, it is just a small area and rarely if ever a traffic area so i just glue t+g as if floating.

 

underlay stop squeaking lol i cant see the correlation between the two sorry evo stik
as i said underlay is for engineered or laminate
what manufacturer says that evo

 

you cant see that two pieces of wood nailed together could make a noise when one of them moves?????

What manufacturer recomends dpm on all groundfloor installations............ all of them!!!!!!!!!
The first company to recomend this to me was grundorf at the flooring show in harrogate a good few years ago, then again when i went on their fitting course.
Also may articles in the flooring journal and in contract flooring mags the same.

You nail straight to floorboards on a ground floor????
sorry limps..........your wrong!!!!!!!!!

 

how can ply move when screwed directly to joists and flooring
how can the oak move when it has been nailed to the ply which has been fixed to sub floor

 

here you go kidda
number 2

"Timbermate excel is recommended as a vapour and acoustic barrier between the subfloor and the finish floor . This helps to control dust and moisture from below as well as dampen squeaks and reduce noise transference. . Alternatively builders paper or roofing felt works reasonably well. This can be stapled to the floor. Polythene sheeting should also be laid over soil areas underneath the subfloor to lessen vapour transmission."

http://www.wood4floors.co.uk/wb/pages/guides-info/fitting-instructions.php

 

I thank you

 

oh btw
"how can the oak move when it has been nailed to the ply"
so what you saying? we don't need expansion gaps then?
..............oh dear!!!!!!!!!

 

not that i am arguing with you audi, i actualy agee but why is it that old oak floors are laid directly to the joists with no problems with squeaks etc?

 

even mamade boards like chipboard need expansion.

what are your thoughts on gluing directly to the floorboards audi? thats what i did in my hall with no problems

 

yeah they are and prob spent the last 100 years moaning and groaning and creaking, you know the old saying, the house is settling down for the night.
Try doing that in a customers house today, tell them their floor is supposed to creak and groan........ they'll have you in small claims before you can say hows your wotsit!