Solid Wood Floor installing

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Biffo, Feb 14, 2006.

  1. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    Hi, I need some advice on installing a 18mm oak floor
    The problem i have is the extra height i gain with the timber battens fixed to the floor this gives an overall raise of 55 mm ( 35mm Battens) Causing a step up into the kitchen plus i wont get the washing machine back under worktop ..
    Ive got a 10mm tile down at the moment ,i could Kango these off ,thus leaving 45 mm to lose ..will i have to disc out grooves in the existing floor to sink the battens in ??
    Can I lay the new floor by gluing the tongue ,giving a floating floor ??
    Thanks for any replies Paul
     
  2. woody11

    woody11 New Member

    you can glue solid wood to the floor as long as it is level


    if you need any more advice email woody.bosher@ntlworld.com or give me a call 07970600550
     
  3. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    Not to 100%sure on that ,surely the floor needs to move with changing temps .if glued down it will warp and lift ???
     
  4. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    you can't glue and float 18mm solid wood.
    if your base is concrete you can either screw 3/4 ply to the concrete then nail to the ply or you can use elastilon adhesive underlay, this is the only method i use when fitting solid to concrete floors, why? because it works!
     
  5. klunk

    klunk New Member

    hi,

    I've one of these to price, Can you not just glue boards as you go andhave it free floating

    cheers
     
  6. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    you can't glue and float it like engineered you must nail it down.
    If it is concrete some people fully stick it with bona or stika adhesive i prefer elastilon adhesive underlay
    http://www.elastilon.com/english/indexenglish.htm
    click play for demo.
    it is easy and trouble free with no call backs, it is the dogs!
     
  7. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    ok Ive sorted the washing machine ...Ive moved it out and fitted new kitchen unit .
    You say ,cannot glue it to good conc base but some stick it !!!
    Some say yes some say no ??????????

    spec on box states to be nailed to joists or battens
    Im going to shoot down 18 mm plywood to all the floor area then secret nail down the boards

    sorted
     
  8. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    yep nail down is the best, i only use elastilon on concrete for quickness and to avoid some of the probs you can get with the extra hight of ply.
     
  9. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    Cool Video !!!!
    looks so easy to use ,you got me thinking again now!!!
    Be nice to have the bird on the videp test it out !!!! Cheers audi
     
  10. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    it's a bit of a knack (but not hard) you may get a bit stuck up to begin with if you aint used it before but once you get 3 rows down you will be flying. It is a very fast way of fitting.
     
  11. bodget&scarpers

    bodget&scarpers New Member

    had 2 look at a duff floor on monday,been glued 2 concrete
    and boards all 18m/m thick r cupping,but one area has lifted by about 7"
    was there 4 a few hours,but could not sort it out.
    when i levered up the end board under the units,it pulled up the latex and the weak screed.
     
  12. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    yep it is very common thats why i never glue solid down.
    I get calls regularly to repair but once the wood has started to cup just bin it.
    I do the odd repair where the fitter has left the wrong gaps and the floor is lifting (floating floors mainly)
    or the odd plank change in solid.
    It is almost immpossible to put right bad fitting in solid wood.
    *Everyone take note, DO NOT GLUE 18MM+ SOLID WOOD DOWN!
     
  13. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    when fitting the 3/4 baseboard do i leave the usual gap off the wall ??
    ive Kangoed all the ceramic tiles up ,complete nightmare just pva'd the floor .self level it in morning ,board it sunday .
    then back to fitting windows monday ,good innit !!!!!!!!1
     
  14. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    you don't need an expansion gap in the ply, just the wood itself.
    A rough guide on med to lge floors is make the gap the same as the thickness of the wood you are fitting.

    "self level it in morning ,board it sunday .
    then back to fitting windows monday ,good innit !!!!!!!!1"
    Lazy get, i'm sure you could find summit to do while the floor dries!
    ;)
     
  15. klunk

    klunk New Member

    hi,

    I pricing for a solid 18 mm floor its a T Shape bottom of the T being a galley kitchen

    the existing floor is ceramic floor tiles could i go right over this? seems solid

    elastilon looks good (im tight on height because they haven't allowed much for washer etc) but its only about 8 m2 and nearest dealer seems be 30 miles from me

    just wondering if worth the trip to get some
     
  16. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    i dont see why not i have done it before no probs , elastilon seems to fit on anything flat.
     
  17. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    Same problem I had Klunk , As mentioned above i moved the washing machine .
    I still ended up kangoing all the ceramic tiles up .9m2 took 5 hours plus the cleaning up .This took 15mm off total height. I can now use the 3/4 ply board to fit new floor to .
    if you doing a paid job go with what audi-evo states looks good ,or give the customer the choice

    Audi-evo Got the boards down sat night/sun morning just in time to go to stoke ,to see birmingham get into quarter finals !!!!!!!
     
  18. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    Well we got into quarters too (toon) shame we got chelsea!
    Looks like we'll have to knock em out like we did last year!
     
  19. merlin33

    merlin33 New Member

    Hi all, just been asked to do my 1st solid floor and would be greatful if you could answer a few questions for me before i say yes. wood has not been chosen yet so dont know thickness.

    1. Audi, you say as a general rule expansion gap should be same as thickness. do you mean gap at each end or total gap as this may not easily be hidden by skirting (length of room 7.3m).

    2. plan is to nail to existing chipboard floor (which is sound).Is this good practice or should i remove old floor and nail straight to joists.Also would moisture barrier be needed or advisable between old floor and new.

    3.when fitting up to stairs, could i fit flush and leave as much expansion gap as poss at other end. fitting will be end on to stairs with approx 1.5m length.

    Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance
     
  20. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    hi merlin.
    1 i mean the gap all the way round up to the thickness of the wood so about 15-18mm (bigger room, bigger gap)
    You can get 18mmm skirting anywhere.
    2. You cannot nail to chipboard. Either 3/4 ply and nail to this or use elastilon adhesive underlay. DPM if first method not if second.
    Rip up floor and nail to joists is ok but seems a lot of work for nothing.
    3 No. (but i do it now and then.)
     

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