Solid Wood Floor installing

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Biffo, Feb 14, 2006.

  1. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    I use a powernailer because they are very well made and if you do manage to damage one all of the parts are available to replace.
    I use 38mm powernailer cleats.
    You could use any porta nailer and any brand of cleats, i just stick with what i know.
     
  2. jon boy 00

    jon boy 00 New Member

    I have just read all the replies - very interesting & helpful. But talking of Gripfil...I bought some Bausen oak flooring & the bloke at the timber yard actually advised that I should glue it direct to concrete - I'm glad I ignored him!
     
  3. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    yep you are right to ignore him, the stuff is to expensive to "bodge" fit it just because the blolke in the timber yard knows someone who did it and got away with it.
    3/4 ply screwed down then nail to the ply is the best way to fit.
     
  4. Celtic30

    Celtic30 New Member

    Hi,

    I've managed to hire a porta nailer from a company called PNI and some 38mm cleats.

    Should I hand fix the first boards? If so, do I need any special nails and tools (e.g. punch). I guess you face nail along the same lines as the secret nailing (at 300-400mm centres). I see that you can get a face nailing deveice but I am not sure whether they are available from the hire shops.

    Starting to get there now, any help though with the above would be much appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Damian
     
  5. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    face nail the first row as close to the edge as possible, you should be able to cover it with the skirting.
     
  6. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    ok got the porta nailer 38 mm cleats
    Is there a knack to using these ?? been messing with some scrap bits ,getting about 50% to go home ??
    Hoping to do tomorrow
    cheers
     
  7. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    did you get the big rubber hammer?
    also did you get the multi blow?
    the multi blow powernailer is just that, you can strike it 2 or 3 times and it will keep driving the nail in further with each blow, when the nail is fully driven in it will release.
    Single blow nailers need a bit more practice and a good hard strike.
    PS. you may need shin pads!
     
  8. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

  9. Celtic30

    Celtic30 New Member

    Hi again,

    Thanks for your earlier advice re: nails.

    Lasy hopefully daft question - do you use the same nails for face fixing as you do with the portanailer. Also where there is no skirting to hide the face nails, do you have any tips to hide the nails from view?

    Many thanks again,

    Damian
     
  10. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    You can use the same nails but i would recomend you pre drill the wood (but not the subfloor) this will make it easier and stop the hardwood splitting.
    You can also pre drill the second last row diagonally through the tongue (as the nailer would) then hand nail.
    The last row you pre drill at the edge then surface nail and hide with skirting.
    ta-da job done!
     
  11. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    Almost done ,just a few more cuts.
    Had problem with some of the shorter boards ,2mm wider ??? They were throwing everything out of line .The nailer WAS faulty the striker plate was missing the cleat ,second one was ok ish ,had to return the piston by hand,return spring was nackered
    I have a few lenghts left Ive machined these to make some skirting board ,anyone know what is used on the boards to darken the oak ,its very dark Stain then a top coat ??
    Audi DO NOT MENTION FOOTBALL !!!!!!!!!!
    After Tuesdays 0/7 Game . I nailed my season ticket to a fence .Someone came and robbed the nail !!!!!
    Cheers Later
     
  12. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    You always get a few odd width planks with solids, you can only use them on the last row.
    Hire tools are always rough.
    Would i mention the football!!!(newcastle!!!)
     
  13. Simon1

    Simon1 New Member

    Oak is a bit of a prima donna when it comes to what metals it likes to sit with. Certain metals will react with it under certain (common) conditions and cause a serious blue stain. Steel and, I believe, Zinc are two of these. (Sheradised nails are zinc plated nails)

    You need to use Stainless Steel, Copper or Brass.
     
  14. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    dunno aout that, i have used powernail cleats (steel) for 8 years, never had a complaint of blue stains yet.
     
  15. Simon1

    Simon1 New Member

    Well, here is a quick experiment...

    Bang a steel nail halfway into an oak offcut... wet it under the tap (speeds the reaction up) and leave for about 2 hours and you will see a thin blue ring around the nail where it goes into the wood.

    Wet it again and leave for another two hours and the blue starts running down the grain.

    There may have been no complaints about your work - and it may be because no blue marks have appeared. It may also be that the purchaser can't be bothered to chase what he sees as a lost cause, or because after five years, he views it as fair wear and tear or a number of other factors.
     
  16. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    nope, it's because it's all secret nailed and 6mm below the surface.
    Also powernailer is the best selling nailer in the world and powernails the best selling cleats for fixing solid wood floors.
    If there was a problem this would not be true.
     
  17. Biffo

    Biffo Member

    I only asked the question because i been in glass and glazing trade for 30 years . When we glaze Hardwood frames(oak iroko sapele) we have to use sheradised pins to stop any staining
    As the flooring cleats are sunk under flooring i cant see any problems.
    The floor is down now ,looks good.
    Insurance men coming tomorrow to (FIT) plinths and worktops, should be fun !!!
    Off to watch blues do Man u LOL
    later
     
  18. Boozeon

    Boozeon New Member

    audi-evo, what size nails do you use when fixing to 3/4 ply, i'm doing two rooms one solid concrete floor with glued tiles and the other room is chipboard this room is 6mm higher than the other one and I plan to lay 12mm ply on it, the concrete one I plan to lay 18mm ply (dpc under)this will be screwed down (is it worth putting silicon sealer in the holes before inserting screws?

    Finally do I need underlay, the flooring is 18mm bordeaux pine which has been stored in the room for at least two months.

    Any advise will be much appreciated
     
  19. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    I always use 38mm powercleats, silicone in the holes can't do any harm, i use a pe foam underlay between the new floor and the ply, it seams to reduce creaking and squeaking when the weather changes.
     
  20. Boozeon

    Boozeon New Member

    Cheers Audi for you very prompt reply it is much appreciated
     

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