Split fence post

Discussion in 'Landscaping and Outdoors' started by Misde-Meanor, May 14, 2019.

  1. Misde-Meanor

    Misde-Meanor Member

    Hi guys, i'm looking for help (again) I have a split fence post but the split is at the top, right at the hinge and i'm just wondering if this is fixable ?
    It was already split and i probably should have dealt with it sooner but last night my next doors neighbours' wooden planter thingy took a header onto it :mad: and has worsened the split to the point i couldn't get out of the gate, obviously i did eventually get out but i had to lift the gate up to do that.

    The gate opens out the way from my side so i'm hoping if it is fixable and that i don't need to remove the hinges because i can't even loosen the screws right now.

    TIA for any replies or advice you can give me. :)

    First pic is the view from the outer side my fence and second is from the inside.

    IMG_0205.JPG IMG_0206.JPG
     
  2. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    Exterior PVA into the split.

    Clamp it together.

    Pilot some holes and drive in some 5x60mm screws.

    As others say jobbie jobbed
     
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  3. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Fixable - yes ...

    Get some Coach/Carriage Bolts https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/bolts/cat840086#category=cat840086&boltsize=m10|m12 so that they will just protrude through the split post.

    Drill a clearance hole for each 13mm for M10 and 116mm for M12 say tust below the hinge then every 200mm or so

    Push the bolts through and fit a large 3 or 4mm thick washer - the square one are ideal https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-n...&fixingsfinish=bright_zinc_plated|zinc_plated

    Fit the nuts and tighten one or two turns on each, moving top to bottom, then another couple of turns from bottom to top, and continue - this will draw the two parts together.
     
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  4. Misde-Meanor

    Misde-Meanor Member

    Thanks for the replies guys but i will say right off that my knowledge and DIY (NOT) skills are pretty non existent so please forgive my ignorance :oops:

    @Pollowick ....... Do i drill where the red line is on the below pic, not necessarily as many bolt markings (again excuse the childish graphic work) and just to clarify, is the drill hole size correct for the M12's because that seems like a helluva difference from the M10's and finally how do you turn the nuts to tighten, just a normal spanner or socket ? Grey is the new blonde you know, yes i'm not a kick in the 'rse off of being a pensioner so please keep it simple for me :p

    Post.jpg
     
  5. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Yes, dril from that side.

    The fisrt one could be where the second X is, then abolut 200-250 (8-10") below. Your Xs are too close.

    You want a little clearance round the bolt as the hole will move as you pull the sides together - coach bolts have large heads with a small square below. Although tryit with a 10 or 12mm hole to start, and see if it works. Tighten with a spanner.
     
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  6. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    If you have clamps then use GB's method if not then a variation of pillowtalk's but just drill through with an 11mm drill and use M10 coachbolts and tighten with a 17mm spanner.
    Still chuck PVA or PU glue down the split first.
    1st bolt through the middle of the hinge height and the other a bit below the hinge.
     
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  7. Misde-Meanor

    Misde-Meanor Member

    Thanks a bunch @Pollowick and @chippie244 for your detailed instructions, that helps enormously when you possess no skills. Much appreciated winking-thumbs-up-smiley-emoticon.gif
     
  8. Wayners

    Wayners Well-Known Member

    I'd fill with dry flex resin then plane/cut to shape if needed. I think resin fill alone will do it as you can shape it good enough. Cheapest is the single tubes as you don't need to prime wood but they are only half full, 180ml... but enough for what you want I think.. Just get it in and clamp if needed. Dries harder than wood with no skill needed. Just a mastic gun and scraper and some wd40 as that will clean it off the tools when done ... £30 though . https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/repair-care-dry-flex-4-single-tube-180ml-11803855
     
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  9. Misde-Meanor

    Misde-Meanor Member

    Me again looking for help regarding the coach bolts :confused: Do they need to be the exterior ones like this

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/timco-in...-bolts-organic-green-10-x-150mm-10-pack/65542
    or will the general purpose ones like these do
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/general-...-bright-zinc-plated-m10-x-130mm-50-pack/63363

    It's only a 4" fence post so i feel that the Timco ones are too long at 150mm but i have no idea what length i should be looking for. The only other place i can find 130mm exterior ones is a DIY store beginning with W. Obviously SF is handier for me as it's just down the road but i don't know what i'm supposed to be buying.

    Please be kind to me and help me out and apologies again for being a numpty.
     
  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

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  11. Misde-Meanor

    Misde-Meanor Member

    Thanks a million @chippie244 That's really helpful to me. I'll pop down tomorrow and pick them up and you answered my question that i was too afeared to ask ... "where the eff does the washer go"

    [​IMG]
     
  12. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    It stops the nut being pulled into the post.
     
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