Stop tap

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Stemoz, May 14, 2018.

  1. Stemoz

    Stemoz New Member


    I am moving the kitchen to another room and need to move the stop tap. Could the pipe be ran up behind plasterboard and over joists above ceiling then back down to its new location?

    Cheers for your help.
  2. Stemoz

    Stemoz New Member

  3. I must be sad

    I must be sad New Member

    Yes mate of coarse

    What pipe you got?

    Make sure you leave the earth bonding on if got one!

    You need to have an isolation at point on entry really, cos if you put a iso elsewhere and you have a leak from its original position and the new you will have run into the street in ya pants to turn it off, but that’s a rare and worthwhile risk if you can’t have boxings or access etc

    Turn off in road, take off old stop cock completely, don’t use the bottom nut & olive as you don’t want inaccessible compression fittings,

    Then fit a new full bore lever valve at your desired location of preference
  4. Stemoz

    Stemoz New Member

  5. Stemoz

    Stemoz New Member


    Not sure what pipe I have as its behind sink in current kitchen. Will the pipe diameter need increasing to 22mm as I might lose pressure going up into the ceiling and back to new location?
  6. andy48

    andy48 Active Member

    The pressure you lose going up you will regain coming back down, so no.
  7. Stemoz

    Stemoz New Member

    Thanks. Is it ok to bury in the wall or should I get someone to dig and re route from outside?
  8. andy48

    andy48 Active Member

    If by dig and re-route from outside you mean bring the cold supply in closer to where it is required, in accordance with the water regulations, then that would be the better option, albeit probably a good bit more expensive.

    To bury 22mm pipework in the wall would require a chase of at least 35mm deep to allow for insulation and final plastering. If copper, the pipe should be either plastic covered or wrapped in tape to prevent its coming into contact with the plaster. The insulation is primarily to allow a bit of expansion and contraction (won't be much with cold water) without affecting the plaster. 35mm in brick or blockwork should be OK provided it is all run vertically. If going behind studwork / plasterboard, then no problems.

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