Stud wall question

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Hammer of the Gods, Dec 11, 2017.

  1. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Hello folks. First time poster, and a newbie to the DIY game.

    I'm covering a brick wall in my garage, and wanted to ask if it's best to build the complete stud frame first, and then fix the whole thing to the wall, or is it best to fix it on to the wall bit by bit?

    I've already done one wall of the garage using mostly recycled materials, and while it's not pretty (like I said, I'm a newbie and learning as I go), it's insulated and covered. I did that wall by putting the frame onto the wall bit by bit and it was a pain in the ****! Looked online and saw a guy on Youtube doing the frame on the floor in one go and then attaching the whole thing, which seemed easier, but some of the comments were rubbishing this method. What say you good people?

    Cheers!
     
  2. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    If its just to "batten out" the wall ready for insulation then a proper stud wall isn't needed. What are you trying to achieve?
     
  3. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Hi Dr. I don't even now what "batten out" means. Told you I'm a newbie!

    I'm trying to cover a brick wall inside the garage with insulation and plasterboard. I've done one all already by fixing horizontal and vertical timber lengths to the brick, filling the spaces with insulation slabs, and then covering the whole thing with plasterboard.
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I'd say you don't need horizontal and vertical members, just one way, probably horizontally if the 8x4 plasterboard sheets are going vertically. Suggest you use foil back boards, will help keep moisture from penetrating.
     
    Hammer of the Gods likes this.
  5. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Also now a good time to think if ur gonna be hanging anything heavy on these stud walls once completed - shelving / wall units / bike racks / etc

    If you can forward plan (not always easy I realIise) good time to get extra studs or 18mm ply fixed in place ready to screw into and importantly - in the right positions !

    Good luck with the project

    Are the brick walls single skin construction ?
     
    Hammer of the Gods likes this.
  6. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Good call with the extra studs and plywood. Thanks mate. Single skin bricks? No idea what that means either! All I know is they're pretty old. The garage used to be a stable, and the house itself is 230 years old. I had someone check the walls out though, and they said it was still string enough to fix the stud frame onto.

    Dr, the plasterboard sheets I'm using are 1200 x 2400, and the wall is about 4 metres long by 3 metres high, so would I not need vertical timbers to attach the vertical edges of the boards?
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017
  7. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Also, what's the best substance for filling in the gaps between the already fitted plasterboard sections? As I said, the one wall that's done already was the first I ever attempted, and most of the plasterboard sections went up before I learned how to cut it properly so there's some sizable gaps! Expanding foam? Caulk?
     
  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    "Single skin bricks" just means one row of bricks, walls tend to either be cavity (2 walls with gap in between) or 9" walls with 2 rows of bricks side by side.

    If wall is 4m x 3m yes you may need some vertical battens...depends how far apart your battens are going to be.

    Not sure what you means by gaps, may be filler, or plaster!...can you post a photo?
     
  9. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Ah. In that case, I think it's a 9" wall with two rows of bricks. I'll post a photo when I get home from work, but you guys have to promise not to laugh at my workmanship!
     
  10. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    That is waht I tend to do. Good practice to make sure that teh joints are offset between play and plasterboard. Use the ply horizontally and plasterboard vertical too.

    Also, if there is the intent to hang heavy weights it can be useful to install a sole plate that all the studs sit on, and then screwed to the wall.
     
  11. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    You can run your plaster boards horizontally, no need to be vertical. I usually set vertical stud work out at 400 centres, although if covering in ply, 600 would be OK. If plying the whole wall, then you're laughing regarding fitting the PB, as you'll have zero waste (almost) as you won't have to take in to account stud work spacing. Foil backed board would be good as mentioned or you could fit a DPM (plastic sheet) over the stud work after fitting insulation between it.

    I'd fit studwork, celotex insulation between, DPM, ply then PB.
     
  12. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    As uv mentioned the gaps between the plasterboard joins, im wondering if the PB is gonna be the finished surface or is it gonna be skimmmed ?

    As a garage, possibly not heated (or is this being turned into a habitable room) if not skimmed, any damp or moisture will destroy the plasterboard, turning it damp and bendy. Also the paper surface is easily damaged

    But ....... you may be having it skimmed ....... so much to think about :confused:
     
  13. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Could always just leave it faced with ply and slap a coat of paint on it?
     
  14. nigel willson

    nigel willson Screwfix Select

    Like we’d do that!!!!!!!!
     
  15. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    As you're a newbie, it would be far easier for you to make it as one, with a head and sole plate. Build it 1/2 inch undersized both in height and length. Make sure you staple a strip of damp proof course to the bottom sole plate, lift the wall upright, jam wedges under the sole plate but above the stapled dpc and fix the sole plate to the floor, keeping your stud wall off the brick wall by at least two inches/50mm. Plugs and screws are best. Brown plugs, 7mm masonry/sds drill bit, and 4"/100mm length 5/no10 gauge pozidrive screws. Once sole plate is fixed, fix the wall studs plumb, then add fixings along the ceiling/roofline.

    Install the basic frame first, then insulate with kingspan, then staple a vapour barrier to the internal face of the stud wall, then clad with either regular plasterboard or foilback plasterboard for superior thermal performance (sounds really high tech, doesn't it?) Any gaps in your stud walls insulation layer fill with expanding foam, same goes for plasterboard.
     
  16. Doall

    Doall Active Member

    Whee the pic ?
     
  17. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Much obliged for all the good info folks.

    Jord86 - What's the idea with using wedges and undersizing the frame? Someone else I spoke to said the same thing.

    I've got the timber, plasterboard and insulation sitting in my garage ready to go, and have started cutting the timbers to size. Newest head scratcher is that I've found the wall isn't quite straight (it's a very old structure that used to be a stable about 200 years ago), and bows outwards very slightly in the middle. It's not much, just a couple of cm, and only noticed when I placed a length of timber along the floor at the base of the wall for the base/sole plate (see I'm learning the lingo!). There are also roof rafters at the top of the wall that I need to take into consideration as they mess with my 600mm spacing of the vertical studs (due to the dimensions of the wall and width of my insulation roll, going for vertical studs and horizontally placed plasterboard), and I've also noticed some water droplets seeping through the brickwork at one small section.

    To combat these issues, I'm intending on splitting the stud frame into two sections (don't have room in the garage to build one big one anyway) that will be slightly angled inwards toward each other and meet in the middle, I'll coat the wall inside and out with some No Nonsense Water Repellent Sealer, use the DPM as advised once I've got my insulation installed between the studs, and build another smaller, fiddlier frame around the intruding rafters above the two horizontal sections of plasterboard.

    Here's a rough plan of what I have in mind. Scale is one square = 5mm
     

    Attached Files:

  18. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Don't use No Nonsense Water Repellent Sealer, just 2 coat of a liquid DPM on the inside of the wall, & a strip on flor as wide as overall depth of batten & plasterboard, is all you need.
     
  19. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    If you built your stud wall perfectly to the mm in one frame, when you come to lift it up vertical it will jam, as the diagonal of a square is longer than its length, build it undersized so you can get it upright, then use wedges to pack it up tight. Though in this case it may be better to wedge down off the ceiling joists from what you have mentioned. Can you post some photos?
     
  20. Hammer of the Gods

    Hammer of the Gods New Member

    Will do. I'll take a few pics when I get home tonight. Cheers!

    Don't think I'll need the wedge technique right enough, as like I said I'm going to build the frame in sections due to the rafters and non-straightness!
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018

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