Stud wall question

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Hammer of the Gods, Dec 11, 2017.

  1. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Screwfix Select

    No problems with the jigsaw wall, a good use of material that would have otherwise been wasted. It will however be a difficult job to plaster.
     
  2. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select


    ‘Difficult job to plaster’

    You gotta be kiddding ain’t ya when you say ‘difficult’

    That’s the understatement of the century for sure

    No sane plasterer in the land would take on that job as how could you be sure of not cracking due to movement

    10 miles of scrim tape wouldn’t come close and no point, no fixings on horizontal joins and no timber behind them either. Coupled with skinny timber stud there’s gonna be movement = cracks

    OP was talking about filling joins with spray foam ha ha ha ha ha ha :) Gonna be fun cleaning off all the excess foam from PB paper face

    If Hammer is thinking of skimming wall himself ........ well ............. er yeah,,,,,, righto ........:(

    A difficult job indeed
    Only made easier by ripping out and starting again (harsh but true)
     
    Jord86 likes this.
  3. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    Nuff said.
     
  4. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    In all fairness to hammer he has had a go which is worthy of praise, it can be prepped and skimmed to a reasonable finish my worries would be the total combined weight insufficiently supported but if he's happy with it so be it. Once it's skimmed he could always reinforce it with WallRock Fibre liner to hide the cracked joints! :)
     
  5. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Board it again with full sheets not from a skip.
     
  6. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select


    Your right mate :)

    Plus I said I was gonna back down from commenting any further ......

    However, just couldn’t help myself :(

    This forum is strangely addictive at times ......:confused:
     
  7. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    Or, we may all need to get a life.........! :)
     
  8. koolpc

    koolpc Screwfix Select

    Was it completely dark when you did the walls hammer?
     
  9. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Hammers not worried about a few odd bits!
     
  10. Kim Lundgren

    Kim Lundgren New Member

    Hi Jord – new to this (only signed up based on this post as I'm in a similar boat) so not sure if you will see / reply to this.

    I'm a DIYer and currently renovating detached garage into liveable space.
    We're about to start stud walls and read & watched conflicting advice re barriers. We have a single skin brick wall, so am I right in thinking layers wise from the outside it goes:
    Brick wall (single skin)
    50mm gap
    Breathable membrane (attached to back of stud wall frame)
    Studs (filled with insulated Kingspan panels and any slight gaps foamed)
    Vapour barrier
    Plasterboard
    Plaster?

    Is it also worth coating the inside of the brick wall with some kind of water repellant as someone mentioned in this thread?

    Thanks!
     
  11. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    Hi, yes your order of things is spot on, you could go a bit tighter than 50mm if you wanted but I'd check how plumb the brick wall is and keep the stud walls off the tightest part of the brick walls by at least an inch(25mm) if your tight for space. Painting a tanking slurry on the brick wall wouldn't hurt in my opinion, or render the outside if you wanted to go the whole hog.
     
  12. Kim Lundgren

    Kim Lundgren New Member

    Brilliant thank you so much.
    We had planned on rendering the outside anyway (we just have to wait for the bad weather to pass now) so that will help. It shouldn't affect it too much should it if left over winter without the render on the outside?
     
  13. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    No it shouldn't do, particularly if you opt for tanking the wall too. Check also your outside ground level isn't the same level or higher than the inside floor of the room you want to convert, it wants to be at least two brick courses or more below.
     
  14. Kim Lundgren

    Kim Lundgren New Member

    Great will look into that thanks. Ground level is cleared by 1 course at the front end and about 4/5 at the back so well clear. Thanks again, appreciate the replies :)
     
    Jord86 likes this.
  15. Kim Lundgren

    Kim Lundgren New Member

    Hi Jord,
    Last question but with putting a breathable membrane on the back of the studs and a slurry on the wall, do I need some kind of vent at the bottom of the wall to allow any potential water/vapour to escape?
    Hopefully there's none but I've seen weep vents mentioned and wouldn't want to cause any rot/mould or water build up behind the studs. Or is water so minimal it wouldn't affect?
    For reference we have a warm roof if it makes a difference. Thanks in adv!
     
  16. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I did exactly what you are doing in our detached garage a few years ago, exactly as you describe and no issues at all. I actually made a shallow suspended and insulated floor over the garage floor (which was otherwise a cold slab) and insulated the ceiling of course. Toasty. When you say "liveable space" I presume this is a study or hobby room or something similar. If it were to fall under "habitable room" - i.e. a bedroom etc, it would fall under building regs....
     
  17. Kim Lundgren

    Kim Lundgren New Member

    Thanks Mr Rusty, good to hear.
    Yes sorry not a livable space, just going to be a study / out-room as it looks over the garden.

    Did you ever consider using tin/steel studs to do the walls? Just had a plasterer up who recommended we use that instead of timber. Be good to get some opinions. Thanks
     
  18. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    No. If I'd "won" a load of metal studs, I might have used them - used all the time in commercial buildings - less so in domestic. Wood is much easier for most jobs, and for smaller jobs probably cheaper.

    Edit - I just checked the merchant I use - 70mm metal C stud 2.4m £5.65, 70x42 CLS £7.13 and 3x2 C16 carcassing £4.72 all exvat. so not much in it now timber prices have risen so much- but cutting metal can be trickier than wood, and you can't staple your breathable membrane that holds your insulation in onto metal stud.....
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2021

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