Supporting 2m+ worktop with no units underneath

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by BearWithMeh, Jan 25, 2011.

  1. BearWithMeh

    BearWithMeh New Member

    Hello everyone.

    I've got a utility room plan which I'm struggling with.  I've attached a couple of images showing the plan.  My problem is how best to support the worktop.  It will have 2 washing machines beneath it and I want it to have nothing underneath it in the corner as this space will be used for laundry bins.  I'd rather not put an L corner cabinet here as it would not make best use of the space.

    I'm thinking a long length of l shaped metal attached to the wall and bottom of the worktop starting from the left of the sink unit going right to the side wall would be good coupled with a pair of cover panels as in the attached image.  Not sure where I'd get such a bracket.. maybe using multiple brackets would work?  Would this method be ok?  How would I secure the panels to the bottom of the worktop?

    Also, I'd like to have a second, shorter piece of worktop like in the first attached picture.  Would this be adequately supported if it also had a single cover panel on the end next to the fridge and a bracket running along its length?

    Hope my post makes sense.  Help with this would be highly appreciated.

    edit.  oh forgot to add.. I'd rather not use end panels. if anyone has a better (and hopefully cheaper) alternative please let me know.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

  3. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    big all, I have one of those. Here's a tip if you want it removable.

    Have the top(under the worktop) with a normal end socket fixed. At the bottom, stand the pole on a sticky felt pad(the pole cut to fit fairly tightly) and an unfixed end support just dropped onto/over it.

    It won't move unless you want it to, then you just lift and pull the bottom out(if you ever need to).


    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  4. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    nice tip ha
    although you could cut a 3mm deep hole in the top that would "locate" the pole to hold it solidly with minimum effort required to remove
    other options are a simmilar "hole " in the tiles to locate the pole although a hole fully through the tiles onto the wood or concrette will stop the tiles cracking with the stress/load
     
  5. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Aye. Main reason I did it with sticky felt pad was that I didn't want screw-holes in the laminate.


    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  6. BearWithMeh

    BearWithMeh New Member

    Thanks for replying.  Liking the rail suggestion coupled with felt pads (I'm also not keen on putting holes in the floor) but concerned a child might be able to knock the rail out.  How much effort would that take?

    Regarding the join.. I'm using ikea's Pragel worktop which comes in at only 2.46m long so the join will have to be as pictured. Do you think it would still be ok?  I've attached another pic with the rails in place.. I've compressed it this time, the other images were a bit big.

    edit.. am I going over the top using 5mm thick steel angle?  http://www.screwfix.com/prods/69361/Building/Builders-Metalwork/Heavy-Duty-Angle-Bracket-90-x-90-x-63mm-Pack-of-25#BVRRWidgetID  These are 2mm and they're described as heavy duty.. maybe these would adequate?  The predrilled holes would certainly be conveniant.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Mmmm! Yes, a child may be able to pull them out from the pads.  If you could get the centre one exactly beneath the joint, this would essentially hold the lot up(coupled with your angled iron at the back). Fix that one down properly and the others could be removed by accident and not cause a problem.
    Then you may think you may as well fix them all down.

    Children, as you imagine, are an unknown quantity!

    The one 'rail' we have is between appliances, children have come and gone, but not once has the rail been disturbed(not to say it couldn't happen).


    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  8. BearWithMeh

    BearWithMeh New Member

    Ah, don't want to rely too much on that then.  We have a little darling in the family who likes to be a bit robust with fairly mundane but important objects (like radiator valves and door handles..).

    Also, I'd rather not have a rail where the join is as that would split the mouth of that underworktop space in half if you see what I mean. If I upgrade my worktop choice to a howdens one so it goes all the way to the end wall and is supported there by brackets/angle iron (as mentioned by Big All), then put a rail between the 2 machines using a felt pad but set back a little from the front edge so it can't be gotten at.  Would that eliminate the need for the centre rail?  I've attached a pic showing what I mean.  The pic doesn't show the smaller section of worktop as I may just leave that out.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    block off wood/batton big enough to give a large enough footprint 6 to 8" square inches [3x2" 1.5x 5" for exampl] around 20mm thick covered in 2 layers off double sided sticky tape or silicone to stick to the floor drill a hole about 14mm deep same in the top this wont move with a kid pole dancing on it but can be removed without trace
     
  10. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

  11. zookeeper

    zookeeper New Member

    END PANEL LEFT OF WASHER, END PANEL RIGHT OF FRIDGE , 2 X 3/4 PINE BATTON TO BOTH WALLS, STEEL 2 X 2 BRACKETS FROM WORKTOP TO END PANELS AND BATTONS.
    END PANELS CAN BE ONLY 400 WIDE IF MAKES YOU FEEL BETTER, CHEAP AS CHIPS.
     
  12. BearWithMeh

    BearWithMeh New Member

    Thanks for the added replies and suggestions folks, sorry for not replying sooner.  I've adjusted my plan a little - going to opt out of a corner join but will still use ikea worktop and make a straight join instead and possibly use the leg suggested by JoinerJohn + batons and angled brackets.  I've attached a pic - please tell me if you think this would be sturdy.  The leg is centered between the the join and 20mm from the front of the worktop.

    edit.. Will having the leg right under the join get in the way of the joint bolts (not pictured - as I just learnt about them now heh) , or could I set the front joint bolt behind the leg or vice versa?
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice