Swapping Existing Wireless Thermostat Receiver for Hive Receiver on Combi Boiler

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by RipGroove, Dec 4, 2019 at 4:25 PM.

  1. RipGroove

    RipGroove Member

    Should be a simple question hopefully.

    I want to swap my existing Honeywell BDR91 wireless thermostat receiver on my combi boiler for the Hive receiver.

    Existing receiver color scheme:
    [​IMG]

    New Hive receiver:
    [​IMG]

    All I want to know is which terminals to connect each of the 4 wires to in the Hive receiver. I know the boiler end of the wiring is fine and my boiler is already set to constant as my existing receiver works just fine.




    Using the existing color scheme of the wires in my first photo, should it be:

    Black wire to N on Hive back plate
    Brown wire to L on Hive back plate
    Grey wire to Com 1 on Hive back plate
    Yellow/Green wire to Com 3 on Hive back plate

    So essentially:

    N on BDR91 to N on Hive
    L1 on BDR91 to L on Hive
    A on BDR91 to Com 1 on Hive
    B on BDR91 to Com 3 on Hive
     
  2. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Well-Known Member

    The yellow/green wire is exclusively reserved as a CPC or earth wire, the regulations prohibit it's use for any other purpose even if it is identified with tape, sleeving or numbers. That aside, the black has been used for neutral, not advised but should have a blue marker, and the brown is correctly used as phase. The Greeen/yellow and the grey are the control pair, join them to make the boiler come on. It appears that the control circuit of the boiler is extra low voltage, maybe 24V and must not be connected tot he mains supply.
    Need more info on the Hive contacts 1,2,3 &4. You are correct to connect the supply, brown and black to L&N of the Hive.
     
  3. Mike83

    Mike83 Well-Known Member

    N on BDR91 to N on Hive
    L1 on BDR91 to L on Hive
    A on BDR91 to Com 1 on Hive
    B on BDR91 to Com 3 on Hive[/QUOTE]


    This is all correct assuming it’s single channel hive.
    Not sure why 5 core cable wasn’t just used though.
     
  4. RipGroove

    RipGroove Member

  5. RipGroove

    RipGroove Member

    The box states I need a hot water tank, have I bought the wrong one? As I don't have a tank, just a combi boiler.

    I'm sure I picked the most applicable one from the Amazon selection.
     
  6. Mike83

    Mike83 Well-Known Member

    You have the incorrect one.
     
  7. Mike83

    Mike83 Well-Known Member

  8. RipGroove

    RipGroove Member

    Have to swap that then, which one do I want from that Amazon link?
     
  9. RipGroove

    RipGroove Member

  10. Mike83

    Mike83 Well-Known Member

  11. RipGroove

    RipGroove Member

    Ah, I obviously thought I needed the Heating & Hot Water one, never mind. Amazon return has already been accepted, thanks!
     
  12. Smokey

    Smokey Member

    If you used SEARCH you'll have found:
     
  13. peter palmer

    peter palmer Well-Known Member


    Not true, its only single core green/yellows that can't be used as a live connector, and earth in a multicore flex is fine to use for something else as long as its flagged up the appropriate colour. Saying that everything is still supposed to have an earth at it anyway whether its needed or not.
     
  14. peter palmer

    peter palmer Well-Known Member


    This is all correct assuming it’s single channel hive.
    Not sure why 5 core cable wasn’t just used though.[/QUOTE]


    I don't agree, but it depends on which version he is fitting. On the twin channel one that he posted up 1 and 2 are hot water and heating off connections, 3 and 4 are the hot water and heating on connections, there isn't any volt free contacts. On the single channel back plate 1 is common, 2 is heating off and 3 is heating on, 4 is unused.

    [​IMG]

    I fitted my first hive a couple of weeks ago and I thought it was the most stupid thing to fit in the world, absolutely no instructions in any of the three things you have to fit. you need to see what terminal does what so you turn the receiver over to see if there is a pin out on the back like most timers, there is but it helpfully has a picture of the pins with 1 2 3 4 under them, ******* useless.
     
  15. Mike83

    Mike83 Well-Known Member


    I don't agree, but it depends on which version he is fitting. On the twin channel one that he posted up 1 and 2 are hot water and heating off connections, 3 and 4 are the hot water and heating on connections, there isn't any volt free contacts. On the single channel back plate 1 is common, 2 is heating off and 3 is heating on, 4 is unused.

    [​IMG]

    I fitted my first hive a couple of weeks ago and I thought it was the most stupid thing to fit in the world, absolutely no instructions in any of the three things you have to fit. you need to see what terminal does what so you turn the receiver over to see if there is a pin out on the back like most timers, there is but it helpfully has a picture of the pins with 1 2 3 4 under them, ******* useless.[/QUOTE]
    If it was a single channel hive A&B could only be 1&3.
    He could technically still fit the dual channel and only use the heating side if A&B are 230v.

    I think hive is by far the easiest for people to understand.
     
  16. peter palmer

    peter palmer Well-Known Member

    Depends what A and B go to in the boiler, the twin channel will only output 230V to the heating on terminal and if the grey and earth wires go to the 24V bus in the boiler bad and expensive things will happen to it. It really needs the boiler cover removing and having a butchers at the connections in there. At the very least one of them will need disconnecting.
     
    MGW likes this.
  17. MGW

    MGW Well-Known Member

    As Peter says, if the boiler was wired to the 230 volt control then the line in could be common so no need to use the earth wire for control, so one would assume volt free type thermostat is required.
     

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