Table Saw

Believe some of the Xcalibur range will take them - the reason that you can't find many in the UK is because they don't comply with EU safety legislation.(So they shouldn't be used - in the same way guards should only be removed for clarity of photos )

 

I read that about not complying with EU regulations
but I thought that only applied to commercial
businesses or schools and the like, not a home user.
I read it has something to do with the braking of
f the saw that could loosen the dado set (is this
true)

Yes,basically all correct - have a look here for a bit more info.

 

Rollie

If you insist on using dados (or as we BRITISH call them housings) use a router or a radial arm saw - much safer. Dado cutters on table saws are for stupid macho Americans who think that it's ok to use a saw without any guards. Also, if something is illegal for a tradesman BECAUSE IT'S DANGEROUS what makes you think that you know any better?

Scrit

 

Hi Rollie.

Do you mind me asking what is so important about having a dado head on the saw? The reason I ask is that generally things like accurate fences, sliding tables etc are more use - particularly in the price range you have in mind.

While my own view is that a dado head is actually the best way to cut grooves it's not so important as the basic performance of the tablesaw. I'd rather have an accurate saw that doesn't take a dado head than a inaccurate one that does!

My saw (Scheppach 2500) won't take a dado head, and while that fact sometimes frustrates me it doesn't really take that much longer to use an alternative. (Interestingly it hasn't frustrated me enough to buy the "grooving cutter" that Scheppach offer as an accessory)

You can buy a guard that'll cover a dado head, but they are expensive, and need to be supported from a pole that you attach to the side of the sawtable. You also have to make sure the motor is unbraked. The last thing you want is the dado disassembling itself when you switch the saw off!

As for your actual question, I'm afraid I can't help. I don't know of anything new in your price range that'll do. You might be able to find something second-hand, but unless you have the knowledge to buy wisely and then fettle it I wouldn't recommend going down that route.

To be honest I think you might be better off just concentrating on the basic performance of the tablesaw; even at £500 you can't just assume the basics are fine - too often they ain't.

 

Problem with unbraked motors WW is that they aren't legal (CE marking) - so there's no such thing as a saw newer than 5 years of age (nearer 10 years of age for trade machines) which has no motor brake.

Scrit

 

I always thought that the law was that the saw had to stop within 10 seconds braked or not.I have always thought that the practice of shortening the arbor on a saw made it more dangerous than before.I once worked on a machine which had the blade changed by the previous user. It started wobbling halfway through a piece of plywood because the nut was loose.On a modern machine it would have come off the short arbor and would be doing flying saucer impressions round the shop.Not really what you want.A long arbor is safer for the operator.There is nothing wrong with dado cutters if treated with respect.
They are easier to set to a specific width than a router that unless you have every cutter under the sun needs resetting for a second pass.

 

Hi Scrit.

Gawd, was it as long ago as 5 years that motors had to be braked? I must have brought mine just before the changeover. No wonder I got a good deal at the time!

I didn't know it was actually a CE rqmnt for all saws nowadays - live and learn I guess.

Hey, do you know anything about the Xcaliber? It seems to sport a dado as an optional extra and I guess must have a braked motor. I know the Scheppach locks the two halves of the "dado" together independent of the arbor, but what does the Xcaliber do?

 

Hi Harry.

Yeah, I must admit I see little wrong with dado heads either - certainly think they have their place. (But then I haven't been the wrong end of one that's come loose!)

I guess part of the reason may be that when used industrially on long runs of heavy cuts the operator gets a bit complacent and that's when accidents happen. Unfortunately those of us that probably used one less in a year than an industrial user did in a week got caught up in the rules.

Good point about the long arbor, hadn't thought about that.

 

The only reason the Xcaliber will take dado blades is because it is a copy of the established American Unisaw much loved of Norm Abrams.
All power tools made in the EU have to comply with EU safety legislation.
The only reason the Trend T10 & T11 routers have a click on click off switch is because it is an update of the old DW625 instead of being a new power tool.
Dado blades can only be safely fitted to radial arm saws which are designed to take them

 

Hammer  woodworking  machines  which are a subsiduary  of the european   Felder  group  have  provision for Dado tooling ( maximum 19.2mm  kerf) on all  their  saws and available in the UK. You just specify  your requirement  when you order the machine.
It costs  about   an extra  £190.
Prices start  at £2375  for the K3  Basic  up to  £5658  for  the B3 perform  combined  saw-spindle moulder.

I'm gonna  trade my SIP  in for  the Hammer  B3 Winner Comfort,  complete  with Dado tooling  just as soon as I have the shekels saved  up. Happy Days
So its not just an American  fad  having this facility.