talk box sash windows

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Mr Rusty, Nov 3, 2016.

  1. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Till some kid kicks a ball against your window:)
    It's your house and you're making the windows so it's up to you but I think you're solving a lot of problems that don't exist and building in problems that don't exist now.
    Good luck.
     
  2. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Yesterday I made sliding sashes,and although not finally cleaned up and sanded, test fit is all good with the weatherstrips. Domino'd and glued joints seem incredibly strong, and went together extremely accurately. This window is near finished, just horns to shape, final trimming of sashes, paint (spray) and fittings. 7 more to go. Next ones will be quicker as I can tweak my measurements to get a good fit quicker. I found that working super-accurately I was making joints just a tad too tight on the router table. Need to add a fraction mm clearance - probably because dust etc just lifts the timber off the table slightly and reduces the cut depth.
     

    Attached Files:

    KIAB and CGN like this.
  3. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Looking good Rusty you clever bar steward :)

    More pics ?
     
    KIAB likes this.
  4. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    What are you using to cut the holes for the dominos?
     
  5. Considering the weight these sashes have to carry, with double glazed units and lead weights.
    Would it not be stronger using the traditional tried and tested mortice and tenon for these sashes.
     
  6. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/festool-domino-xl-df-700-eq-plus-jointing-machine-set-501632

    It's an (expensive) beast but still only works out at £100 ish a window and then i've got it for other jobs.- I'll still save a considerable amount making them.

    Using 10mm x 80mm dominos I doubt there is much in it strength wise- they make a beautifully tight accurate joint, and to be honest I just didn't fancy cutting 64 haunched tenons - would have added considerably to the time which is long enough already. I'm getting one domino in the meeting rail joint and 2 in the top and bottom rails.
     
  7. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    I have seen quite a few manual jigs but nothing actually compares to the real thing. Have been eyeing these up for a long time, just waiting for a project so that I can justify to myself ;)
     
    KIAB likes this.
  8. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Is a nice piece of kit.:)
     
  9. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    got one yourself ?
     
  10. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    No.[​IMG]

    Seen one other day in Bristol tool shop,well designed tool..
    But, I cut cut loose tenons with the router jig I have.
     
  11. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    It has been a lot of biscuits and pocket holes for the last few months. Tenons, i cut on the table saw and mortises with just a router and chisel to finish. I sold off my powered mortiser a few years ago and haven't noticed its gone.
     
  12. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Powered mortiser a tool with limited uses, like you can cut tenons on table saw, sliding mitre saw or router.
    Got a morticer attachment for my 1" pillar drill, but it's never used.
     
  13. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    as an engineering project its fabulous, but......

    I wouldn't use the strips between the pulley stile and the sash, all too easy to get problems once the painting begins

    I am trying to work out how you have them configured. Assuming the staff beading is on the inside of the building. Then the ovolo moulding should also be. It looks as if its set to the outside.
     
  14. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Hi DW - the ovolo is indeed on the outside - internally beaded with dry glazing. The design, including the slide strip https://www.reddiseals.com/product/flexislide-for-groove-and-self-adhesive/ is identical to the one used by a well known London company who conveniently post their CAD drawings on line - my design is very similar to their conservation range for 24mm DG. I will be painting before installling the strips - the photo is just a tiny section fitted in for checking clearances.

    I realise this design incorporates many non-traditional features, but its obviously a tested design. Incidentally, at the recent restoration show at Harrogate, we looked at 6-8 different sash window manufactuerers and virtually all were using internally beaded and dry glazing in DG units.

    BTW the reason I used an ovolo profile instead of a simple bevel is because I couldn't find a simple bevel pair of scribing router cutters, but could find suitably sized ovolo scribing set.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016
  15. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    Do you then router all the way down the edge of the sash to allow for the parting beading? And how do you finish the meeting rail?
     
  16. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Yes - you can see there is a rebate where the parting bead is. The sash frame and pulley stile between staff bead and parting bead are the same width - 56mm. The rebate by the parting bead is 3mm deep which gives clearance for the pile weatherstrips either side and closes the gap between meeting rails to 4-5mm. This is sealed with a pair of pile seals one on each sash - I've already machined the stepped grooves for the pile carrier - reddiseals sell the carrier and a matching router cutter. If you google "conservation range timber windows & doors" you will find the page with the downloadable PDF and DWG. I don't want to paste a link - Not sure how they feel about people pretty much copying their design, but they post the drawings so can't be that surprised.

    Next time I will stop the slot for the slide strip short so it doesn't show on the top of the lower sash.

    I'm making this first window to completion to iron out any tweaks that are needed. then I'll probably make 2-3 at a time. Next challenge is painting. I'm going to be spraying teknos aquatop. Never used it before. No idea if it's a good choice, but it's what I have chosen.
     
  17. koolpc

    koolpc Screwfix Select

    Great work Rusty
     
  18. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    thanks - windows is just part of this project. there's a fair bit to go at, so may be a little while til the next installment.....
     

    Attached Files:

  19. koolpc

    koolpc Screwfix Select

    Looks almost ready to move into! o_O

    You should start a thread on the project. Looks to be a big one at that.
     
  20. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Dunno. I started this window thread because I realised there isn't just one way to do it - lot's of different ideas around, particularly with D Glazed options. I'll ask questions when I need answers, but not sure I want to just blog a running commentary, although admit there's lots of interesting challenges........
     

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