Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Mr Rusty, Nov 3, 2016.
Be superb if you documented the work done.
Well, the first of the windows got fully installed today - corded up with top-up weights, all the weather seals put in and finally assembled. Really pleased with how the first one has turned out. The next ones will go much quicker because I won't have to be tweaking my drawings as I go. (BTW, haven't been working on this continuously, loads of other work in between) The CAD drawing I've made up is adjustable for any size window and I can measure off all the cutting dims.
The sashes slide really well, which is great as it means I got the clearances spot on for the pile and slider weatherseals.
I re-used the old weights plus another 4kg either side to make up the double glazed extra. This amounted to 150mm of 50x50 lead, and didn't restrict opening at all. The sashes on this window including 24mm DG weighed 16kg each. 8mm cords are secured either side in nylon cleats, which is much more secure than trying to fix through the cords, and easy to set when installing. https://www.reddiseals.com/product/sash-cord-cleat/
The 24mm DG units were dry glazed into the sashes using EPDM tape (lipped on the outside https://www.reddiseals.com/product/flexible-epdm-tape-with-lip/) and reddiseals clip system. https://www.reddiseals.com/product-category/casement-window/dry-glazing-and-ventilation/#DryGlazing Staff beads and internal glazing beads are QWood, parting beads are Reddiseals white plastic (I was going to use QWood, but the sash profile I have used would make them a b'stad to get in, so converted to the plastic ones.)
Teknos Aquatop is excellent to spray with and drys quickly. I diluted very slightly 5% as their instructions advise. primer + 2 top coats.
Getting the tolerances right on things like this is always is a mix of precision and luck because as it literally is mm between too tight / too lose.
Is the rationale behind making them yourself down to cost / quality or something you fancied doing yourself ?
All of the above!, but as traditional corded accoya DG sash windows made to measure are ~£1500-£1800 ea and mine have about £450 materials + cost of the tools I've bought, with 8 windows to do its a huge difference in cost v. my time, and I'm not in a hurry with this And I like a challenge.
Re the clearances. I did base my dimensioned design on that Southern based up market window maker who post all their CAD drawings on line
Well worth it then.
Did you go with the laminate then ?
No. Fairly traditional construction. All accoya except inner linings which are redwood and cill which is utile.
......and if you look really closely you can see one tiny error that I didn't bother to correct
Wonky beading, might be camera angle?
The pins are showing. I use moulding pins but don't sink them in unless the beading doesnt adhere at any point, and take them out once the glues have set.
Glass wrong way around? What's the finish around the window to be, as there's no reveal and you need to hide the strap?
Y, little bit of v slightly wonky beading. One of the last glazing clips I fastened had gone cocked, and as they are a PITA to undo, I let it go. The bead bulges very slightly over the wonky clip, but you don't really notice it. You have to press the clips in quite firmly to get the DG to seal against the tape, and I just didn't want to take them out again!
Re the finish. I'll be following the way the original windows were finished. That wall will have 60mm insulated pb. There will be a batten fastened to the linings to form a reveal same depth as pb then architrave over.
The glass is the right way round
Traditionalist, impressive not doubting you sir, just most glass units I've ever fitted have had label on inside with an indication that it should be facing room interior. Wasn't picking holes, honest!
There is indeed a pilkington kglass label not visible in photo that says "this side in"
And I thought he had them the wrong way round.
So you let me take the plunge and be the one to put my foot in my mouth? Throw me to the lions next time brother, they may take more pity on me!
Thats as good as it gets, otherwise you would be knee deep in reject pieces, for the sake of the odd mm here and there.
Pretty much got the upstairs done now. Good job we're not on a deadline - been taking too many weekends out elsewhere so a little slower than intended. Had the plasterer in fairly recently to skim all the upstairs and stairs - decided not to attempt this myself, and helpfully discovered next door but one is a plasterer . Fitted the front windows this weekend. pleased with the result. To perfectionist me the larger one should have been 20mm shorter as it sits a bit too high under the lintel, but significant other says I fuss too much. Does prove the necessity to measure every single dimension - turned out the aperture is slightly out of square, and the cill/lintel distance is 15mm different between the two windows depending where you measure because the larger cill has a slightly different profile!
All the upstairs external walls except stairs now have 60mm insulation backed PB and the stairs have 15mm insulation backed PB (due to width).
Now to start downstairs and contemplate the window dimensions for the bay. Challenge I see is that I have a weight box dimension designed for 50mm sq weights upstairs to allow for the heavier sashes, but I might struggle to fit this on the internal dimensions of the bay as the units butt up to each other behind the brick pillars.
It's certainly an interesting challenge designing and making these to suit 24mm DGU. Any other DIYer contemplating a similar challenge feel free to PM me - I've learned a few things along the way!
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