Telebeam Installation

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Jitender, Dec 8, 2016.

  1. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Thanks, I'll have another g tommorw. Will be going with 76mm skirting all the way around at floor level.
     
  2. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Boarded out the stud wall between the bedroom and stairs. The stud wall was constructed in the ' First Stud Wall project'.

    Laid the first two sheets horizontally, to stud spacing's. Next time will position studs so boards are laid vertically.
    upload_2018-4-11_20-4-51.png

    Corner angle bead fixed in place.
    upload_2018-4-11_20-9-12.png

    upload_2018-4-11_20-5-7.png

    Joints taped up, hole made for wall light.
    upload_2018-4-11_20-5-16.png

    Cut out for light switch. Some damage occurred to the edge. Glued broken pice in and taped over joint.
    upload_2018-4-11_20-9-37.png

    Taken measurements for radiator stud fixing points.
     
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  3. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Edit. Sorry Jit, ignore the last post, I'm talking cobblers, there's no reciprocal angle to measure, must be going senile, whatever the chamfer is in degrees, replicate that cut on the architrave, on edge, and it should be a neat join.
     
  4. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Plasterer is turning up tomorrow to do some plastering.

    The blockwork under the windows has some cracks and I am not sure what the best course of action is. From previous work I have seen cracks show through the finished plaster work, as well as the mortal joints on the blocks.

    In hindsight I would have made the staircase landing narrower to accommodate PIR plasterboard 32.5mm.

    I am thinking to whether dot and dab 9.5mm plasterboard over the area below the window, then plaster the rest using undercoat + finish plaster and tape at the joints.

    Or other option is use plaster mesh sheet, like this and bed into the undercoat plaster, a full sheet cut to fit under the window.
    [​IMG]

    Cracks in blokcwork
    upload_2018-4-11_20-18-17.png

    upload_2018-4-11_20-18-39.png

    upload_2018-4-11_20-18-27.png
     
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  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select



    What about using dryfix foam to stick 9.5mm board straight to the blocks? You'll lose too much of the stair string if you dot and dab, and your skirting may not run into the string neatly, may kick out a bit and look poor.
     
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  7. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    You forgot my soapbox and bottle of whisky. :)
     
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  8. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    I do have some foam so could use this, I will see what the plaster says. Don't want to lose to much of the stringer hence using minimum thickness plasterboard.
     
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Still having the loft plastered.

    Some problems I ran into...

    The corner tape around the windows wasn't very good, as plastered not able to get a crisp edge, said it was much harder work as no definite edge to work to. Recommenced using stop beads for the front slope section. The tape was more for DIY or used in offices where they just paper onto the board.

    Window reveals with the corner tape.
    upload_2018-4-18_20-0-15.png

    Front slope plastered with stop beads. I removed the corner tape.
    upload_2018-4-18_19-59-18.png

    Top section plastered flat, did ask him to curve but said it was hard work, Think I could live with this.
    upload_2018-4-18_19-59-55.png

    Stop bead, this is what should have been used around the windows. Have seen this stuff for around but never would have known to use it. Now I know. Angles vut with grinder, using snips can crush/deform the edge.
    upload_2018-4-18_20-0-3.png

    Should be about another 3 half days when everything is plastered.
     
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  10. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Made up the door frame over the weekend. Timber was machined at the wood merchants and they routed the groove for the instrumescent strip.

    Door frame fixed in place. Opening made for a 27" wide door. Hinge side will be on the right (longest side). Latch side only slightly screwed in slightly to allow for adjustments when fitting the door.
    upload_2018-4-23_19-27-30.png

    Joints screwed and glued. Used trend angle measure and it halves the joint. Used plungesaw to cut angles using a square as guide.
    upload_2018-4-23_19-27-37.png

    This joint has been rebated, glued and screwed.
    upload_2018-4-23_19-27-44.png

    upload_2018-4-23_19-27-53.png
     
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  11. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Managed to get base coat of paint on in the entire loft. Little bits were filled and everything sanded over using electric sander.

    Had some white emulsion paint left over so used this after thinning down with water, brushed and rollered on. Used up a whole 10l tub so far.

    upload_2018-4-26_17-47-57.png

    upload_2018-4-26_17-48-10.png

    upload_2018-4-26_17-48-19.png

    Going to get all the plastered areas to this standard so that all most of the dust work is out the way.

    Next week planning on fitting door and all skirtings/architraves etc.
     
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  12. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Made a start on the wall outside the room just to finish tub. Little bits in paint made it time consuming picking them out. Glad I can get some new fresh paint tub.
    upload_2018-4-26_17-53-57.png

    Gap behind stairs/ newel post. In hindsight :oops: should have shifted the telebeam over so the new post would have butted up to the post or battened our stud work. May mayke up some trim as pinting behind it is gint to be nightmare.
    upload_2018-4-26_17-55-41.png

    Understairs. Need trim to cover gap, or may put in small plasterboard?
    upload_2018-4-26_17-57-36.png

    Insulated plasterboard dabbed onto wall has left some hairline cracks, joints were taped up using mesh tape prior to skimming.

    Gouged out the crack so I can put in filler. PIR sheets were tapered edge along longest side and cracks have only appeared on the straight edge (i.e short side). Tapered edges don't show any sighs of cracks.
    upload_2018-4-26_17-59-3.png
     
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  13. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    My favourite part of the job, I love it when it's at this stage, it's now a proper room and it gives you a renewed drive to get it finished. If you were to cut away the sole plate in the eaves door area you wouldn't have to faff about with an awkward architrave/skirting transition.
     
  14. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    Either 25mm quadrant bead or 32mm door stop with small chamfer or arris taken off to cover the gap, alternatively rip down planed 4x1 and fix it behind the newel, glue and pin through the newel, then wood filler the join and sand down. Only problem with 4x1 is the newel cap may not fit, might have to fanny something.

    With the gap at the side of the stairs, be careful if you pack anything out that you won't jam your fingers running up the handrail when it's installed, I would opt for a small piece of the architrave you will use upstairs pinned to the ceiling, with a return mitre on the open end.

    I'm not teaching you to suck eggs by telling you any of this, just offering any benefits of the experiences I've suffered :)
     
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  15. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Lot happy now, as all coming along now, all this small work has added up.

    Got all the linings made for the eaves storage at the same time as door. Made the opening for 3" skirting. Think I will go notch route, shouldn't take to much time to do.

    Planning on doing the woodwork in about a weeks time.

    Dusty work needs to be out the way first, then have a small clear out and reorganize.

    Gone over with filler prior to sanding.

    Definitely prefer to be intricate jobs like wiring, plumbing wood work etc. Cant concentrate while its messy and plaster makes hand dry and feel dirty :(
     
  16. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    Moisturiser young lady, moisturiser ;) or gloves :)
     
  17. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Should have given the stairs a bit more thought as can envisage a gape between the hand rail and stairs, and going to paint it will be tricky.
     
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  18. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Paint the wall before you fit the rail and spindles, or am I being dull now and stating the obvious?
     
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  19. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Makes sense as will be nightmare painting wall between the spindles.

    Will get some good durable paint , and hopefully peeps keeps hand of the wall when coming down.
     
  20. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Paint it a dark colour, you won't notice any dirt marks then :)
     
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